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Arlene Gibbs was working on a movie in production when she realized she needed a life change. When the production company she worked for closed shortly afterwards she decided it was time to leave Hollywood.
“Everything in L.A. was about ‘The Business’,” she said. “Everyone I interacted with at work…at the cafes…even at the gym…was involved in the movie industry.”
Today, she lives in Rome, Italy with a fulfilling new business, and a lifestyle she simply didn’t have back home.
She can grab an unscheduled coffee with a friend and finds that there is always someone ready and able to meet for a drink or dinner. “My Italian friends will often decide that day to have a dinner party or go for aperitivi. If you can come great, if not they will see you soon. Nobody is scheduling dinners three weeks out. That’s bananas.”
Arlene first visited the Italian capital in 2005 and says she felt at home immediately. “I thought maybe I’d move there for retirement,” she says. The move, however, came sooner than she expected.
To support herself, she returned to something she loved long ago but didn’t pursue as a career—interior design.
Arlene had a brief stint in design right after college, at the Bloomingdale’s Executive Buyers Trainee Program working in the Home Furnishings division. She says friends constantly asked her advice about decorating and furnishings, so the passion for interior design wasn’t new for her.
To retrain, she interned with an Italian designer who also does furniture. She was introduced by a mutual friend and Arlene initially met with the designer for advice on going back to school for design. She was then offered an internship and worked in the designer’s showroom.
Then she attended an intense workshop with Kathryn M. Ireland, a famous British textile and interior designer. And she went along to the Salone di Mobili, the definitive international design expo in Milan, which provided more inspiration.
Loving what you do, while living in a country of your choice, is easier to achieve than you may think.
Her first client was a friend who had fired her previous decorator and needed to finish her apartment re-do. From that first job, Arlene started to build her credibility and portfolio, quickly landing a job collaborating with a noted architect, Domenico Minchilli, on a villa in Tuscany.
“Once you have a portfolio, people can see your work. Most designers find new clients by referral, even the ones who are well-established. It’s a collaboration. It’s important that the client and the designer are in sync.”
Arlene spends a lot of time in Tuscany, Umbria, and Rome, working with upholsterers and blacksmiths, visiting craftsmen, and sourcing fabrics. “The craftsmanship is so incredible here,” she says. “Custom furnishings that will last a lifetime are really appreciated and available. I love discovering these artists’ workshops and working with them. There is an artistry and history behind each object.”
“Creatively, it is inspiring, but personally it has been an amazing change. I’m more integrated now. I love what I do and I finally got a life!”
Editor’s Note: If you’d like to learn more about ways you can pay for your life or travels overseas, sign up for Fund Your Life Overseas, a free e-letter from International Living. Sign up here and we’ll send you a FREE REPORT: Fund Your New Life Overseas With These 6 Portable Careers.
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With so much to see in Italy, many travelers overlook the country’s beautiful gardens and lose out on a special experience as a result. For these are no ordinary, peaceful patches of green; they are often reflections of artistic expression with exotic designs and formal layouts. The best-known gardens are the elegant, noble estates of Villa d’Este near Rome, the Royal Palace of Caserta close to Naples, and the Boboli Gardens in Florence, but there are other—secret—gardens to explore…
The Most Romantic: The Garden of Ninfa is southeast of Rome near the hill towns of Sermoneta and Norma. This delightful garden is a romantic oasis in the valley. The gardens were planted in the ruins of a once-noble estate, around the remains of a medieval watch tower. It’s as if some spontaneous act of nature is reclaiming the land and creating beauty among the ruins.
The eight-acre site has meandering paths, bubbling brooks with stone bridges overhung with wisteria, and water canals with little cascades. There are more than 1,000 plant species, including more than 300 varieties of antique roses. It is an enchanting spot and is frequently called “the most romantic garden in Italy.”
Ninfa Garden has quirky hours, open only the first weekend and third Sunday of every month from April through October.
Contemporary Art: The Bosco della Ragnaia, near Siena in Tuscany, is a magical forest and a work of modern art. Created in 1996, the goal was to create a space that blends nature and art, and it is called “the garden reinvented.” Hedgerows, trees, and paving stones are laid out in geometrical designs, while sculptures, columns, and fountains represent the artist’s ideas of metaphor and peace. The garden’s paths are metaphorical, as well. For instance, The Straight and Narrow leads to the Secret Garden, while The Long Road uses optical illusion to appear longer. It’s open from sunrise to sunset every day.
The Most Beautiful Park: A private estate on the volcanic island of Ischia, off the coast of Naples, La Mortella is the result of a 50-year labor of love and determination.
Created by Susan Walton, wife of composer William Walton, it was opened to the public in 1991 and has often been named the most beautiful park in Italy. Walton’s music, along with that of other classical composers, is played during the summer months in the Greek Theatre, built into the hillside overlooking the Bay of Forio. A foundation in Walton’s name promotes chamber music on the island and provides scholarships for young local aspiring musicians.
The Valley Garden is a lush paradise of palms, water lilies, trees, and exotic plants, including a profusion of orchids. Plants form coves and corners, and fountains spurt among lotus and ferns. The Hill Garden is a completely different environment, sculpted onto the rocky slope. Steep paths wind up through different terraced levels, but it is no less exotic, with its Temple of the Sun and Thai Pavilion. There are breathtaking views of the sea up there, too.
The garden is open from April through October; it is closed on Mondays and Wednesdays and you can book tickets online for musical evenings in the Greek Theatre here.
The Tarot Garden: Outside Capalbio, in the Maremma district of Tuscany, you’ll find a unique garden that blends nature with artistic expression and colorful whimsy. Created by artist Niki de Saint Phalle, it’s home to enormous, vibrant representations of the 22 tarot cards. Saint Phalle’s imagination has conjured up a playful park dotted with steel and cement sculptures that are covered with tile, glass, and mirror mosaics. The sculptures are made to be played with, walked through, and climbed on. In fact, Saint Phalle lived inside one of the sculptures while working on the garden! There are fountains for frolicking and trails for walking through the Mediterranean scrub. The artist designed the garden to fit the landscape and called it “a small Eden where man and nature meet.”
The Tarot Garden is just a few miles from the Mediterranean Sea. It is open every afternoon from April 1 through October 15.
The Most Exclusive: Castel Gandolfo estate south of Rome has long been an elite retreat, first for Roman emperors, followed by Rome’s aristocratic families, and then for the popes. The pontifical palace of Castel Gandolfo has been the pope’s summer residence for centuries.
Surrounding the palace are acres of manicured gardens and carefully-tended flower beds, with pretty walkways and lovely overlooks opening onto Lake Albano. For centuries, this remained an exclusive garden, used only by the Vatican. Pope Francis, however, has thrown open the gates to this splendid park to permit the public to enjoy its beauty. Visits are permitted with guided tours and must be reserved in advance. On the grounds are the pontifical palace known as Villa Barberini, the ruins of Emperor Domitian’s villa, and the Vatican Observatory, as well as the beautiful formal garden.
There are three tours each morning from Monday through Saturday, with some conducted in English. Reservations must be made online through the Vatican website; see here.
Editor’s Note: Imagine a region of olive-dappled countryside that’s seriously undervalued…that’s as scenically gorgeous as Tuscany and Umbria…but far cheaper. Italy is full of secrets. If you’re prepared to explore places that have so far slipped through the foreign property-buyers’ net… there are many delightful (and surprisingly affordable) homes within easy reach of the Mediterranean, the Adriatic, the unspoiled countryside…even homes that are less than a couple of hours drive from Rome. The 2014 edition of Escape to Italy: Everything You Need to Know to Retire Better, Invest Well, and Enjoy the Good Life For Less tells you everything you need to know.
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I’m sitting at a pastel green table on one of Italy‘s most beautiful piazzas watching people parading to and fro for an evening stroll. Children scamper away from their parents, a group of elderly gents stand in the middle talking politics, and young couples, coiffed and stylish, stroll about greeting friends and meeting for drinks. The waiter arranges a glass of chilled wine and a plate of nibbles in front of me and I sigh contentedly.
The travertine-paved piazza is lined with arcade-covered shops on two sides, anchored by a grand Gothic church on one end and the imposing Palazzo dei Capitani in the middle, where an art exhibition is taking place in the loggia-lined courtyard. Outdoor tables occupy space around the piazza, and I have chosen the historic Caffe Meletti for my drink, an elegant watering hole since 1881.
I’m in Ascoli Piceno, at the southern edge of Le Marche, a gorgeous town with medieval monuments and Renaissance splendor, which is largely overlooked—but it shouldn’t be.
Ascoli Piceno offers a high quality of life in its beautiful historic center, where everything you need for daily life is at your doorstep, and where events and exhibits regularly liven up the town.
My husband and I were lucky to live in Ascoli Piceno for almost three years and we loved the rhythm of life, the shops, and coffee bars. Since it’s in a valley rather than occupying a hillside, a bicycle is the preferred way to get around town. We particularly enjoyed the ritual of the aperitivo, a pre-dinner drink presented with snacks, as a way to relax, get together with friends, and soak in the atmosphere of this historic city.
The locals like to point out that Ascoli Piceno is older than Rome. Their favorite saying is: “Ascoli era Ascoli quando Roma era pascoli.” (Ascoli was already Ascoli when Rome was still a pasture.) They’re rightfully proud of their city and their lifestyle. It is beautiful and relaxed, and there is always something to do: an art exhibit among Roman ruins, cinema under the stars in a 15th-century cloister, concerts in the piazza, and a twice-weekly market that rolls into town. The velvet-clad opera theater is an opulent venue, while homey food festivals provide inexpensive (and delicious) fun.
One of the highlights of the social calendar is the annual Giostra della Quintana, an event that harkens back to the 1300s and continues the medieval tradition of flag-throwing competitions, a grand costumed parade, and a high-energy jousting match on horseback that rivals the excitement of Siena’s famous Palio.
When you fancy a change of scenery, you’ll find a range of options nearby. Ascoli is only a half-hour from the Adriatic Sea with its wide palm-line beaches, while the cooling altitude of the Sibillini Mountains is less than an hour to the west. Some of the country’s best vintages are produced in the nearby countryside, though many are unknown outside Italy.
The elegant city of Ascoli, Italy offers an attractive lifestyle, fine restaurants, and beautiful scenery…all at a price which is cheaper than you may think.
And, though Ascoli is a convenient and elegant city in the central swath of the country, near Umbria and less than three hours from Rome, it’s not as costly as you might think.
Apartments in the historic center can be found for around $530 per month, and as I strolled to look at real estate listings I noted that prices have come down a bit since we lived here. I spied a pretty attic apartment with gleaming wood floor and beamed ceilings, nicely redone and ready to move into with the furniture included, for $163,000.
Another place in the historic center, recently restored, had brick vaulted ceilings, exposed stone and a loft in addition to its bedroom, was on offer for $95,500, also including the furnishings. A nice townhouse with a terrace, two bedrooms, and a storage room in the character-filled lanes of the city is going for $184,000.
In addition to the beauty and quality of life, Ascoli Piceno retains its small local shops, where fresh produce, locally raised meat, and regional products can be procured at good prices.
Restaurants are plentiful, with excellent fare that won’t break the bank. You can dine out and enjoy a bountiful meal for about $20 per person.
Despite all this, Ascoli Piceno is relatively unknown to vacationers. But while it may not be on the tourist radar, it should be top of your list of great places to live.
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As I walk across the sunny piazza I think how easy it is to feel at home in Ascoli Piceno. I’m still blurry-eyed when I arrive at the coffee bar, but without my having to say a word, a frothy cappuccino is placed before me, followed by a cornetto filled with a dab of sweet almond paste. The barista, Giuliano, smiles broadly and then chats about the happenings in the neighborhood.
I called this small city home for three years before moving to the southern end of Italy. Returning now, it’s as if I never left. Giuliano remembers my morning ritual, the shoe vendor at the mercato greets me as though he saw me just last week, and I easily slide back into my comfortable routine.
Ascoli is the southernmost city in Le Marche, just across the border from Abruzzo. With 60,000 proud residents, it’s a lively place, with gorgeous travertine buildings and a large but lived-in historic center.
Ascoli is just one corner of Le Marche, a hidden region that offers the classic Italian lifestyle of good food, great wine, and cultural attractions for around $2,000 a month for a couple, and that’s including rent.
If you dream of life among rolling hills dotted with stone farmhouses, with patchwork views of cultivated fields, sunflowers, olives groves, and grapevines, Le Marche is the place. There are no large cities; the biggest is Ancona, the regional capital, with about 100,000 people. Towns here are on a human scale, often small enough to get around on foot, by bike, or scooter. Most are large enough to have shops, restaurants, cultural attractions, and services, yet remain small enough to be personal and engaging.
While it often resembles its neighbors, Umbria and Tuscany, with its hills and golden sunlight, Le Marche is still distinct.
And despite the appeal and art it holds, it remains largely off the tourist track. And that’s just fine with the Marchigiani, who are practical, unpretentious kinds of folk. They like their slow-paced lifestyle, while welcoming visitors who take the time to come and experience it for themselves.
Le Marche rests between the Adriatic Sea to the east and the soaring Sibillini Mountains to the west, part of the central Apennine range. These mountains mean that invaders (and tourists) have had little impact here. Between the mountains and the sea you’ll find honey-colored towns hugging the tops of hills and overlooking fertile and bucolic river valleys. Sometimes it’s faster to drive down to the coast and up the next valley, rather than taking the squiggly inland roads that scale and then descend the inland hills.
Miles of palm-lined sandy beaches march up the Adriatic Coast, making it the “palm Riviera.” Most of the seaside towns are modern-built resorts popular with locals, vacationing Italians, and northern Europeans. Unfortunately, the major A-3 motorway and the railway line front the sea, making it a noisy place to live and marring the views. But the beaches are easily accessible and the water is inviting during the summer heat.
Le Marche is still rural at heart and farming is still a respected profession; the use of GMOs is banned and organic farming methods are the norm. Fishing is also an important trade and San Benedetto del Tronto is one of Italy’s most important centers for freezing and packing fish.
Le Marche Real Estate Vocabulary
When you’re perusing the real estate listings, there are a few words you’ll see in Le Marche that you may not see in other parts of Italy. Here’s a primer to help you read the ads, online or in real estate-agent windows.
Fondaco: Called a cantina elsewhere in Italy, a fondaco is basically a cellar. It is usually a stone or brick room, often with arched, brick ceilings, on the ground-floor level. It is used for wine storage, as a general storehouse, or as a taverna, where friends meet to drink wine and chit-chat.
Cielo-Terra: Literally meaning “sky to ground,” it refers to a townhouse that takes up a whole building, not just one floor of it. It is an independent house in town rather than an apartment, though it is likely attached to other buildings on at least one side.
Casa Colonica: A colonica refers to a farmhouse, which was distinguished as a rural dwelling for farmers, rather than a villa where the landowners lived. It usually had out-buildings for equipment, and the ground floor held stalls for the animals, while the family lived upstairs.
Soppalco: A loft or open gallery, whether in a barn or an apartment, it is an open upstairs space. You’ll often see soppalcato, meaning “loft added,” usually in a grand space that has high ceilings, where a little extra living space could be easily added.
Rustico: Meaning rustic, of course, it refers to a stone rural structure that was used as a country work-and-living space during the harvest. A rustico is often where the salami would be made, tomato sauce was jarred, or other farm-related activities carried out. Now they’re popular as stone vacation cottages.
Piano interrato: Elsewhere it means “underground” or basement, but in Le Marche it’s used to refer to the ground floor where storage rooms are located.
But Le Marche isn’t “backwoods.” It was the birthplace of the noted Renaissance figures Raphael and Bramante, the opera composer Gioachino Rossini, and Italy’s beloved poet, Giacomo Leopardi. There is a renowned opera festival in Macerata and glorious art galleries in all the larger towns. Cultural events, exhibitions, and grand historic festivals are part of the joy of living here. The Republic of San Marino, the world’s oldest sovereign city-state, sits partially within the confines of Le Marche.
Dramatic scenery and natural wonders also abound. From the limestone cliffs on the Conero peninsula to the canyons, gorges, and waterfalls of the mountains, there is much to enjoy in the great outdoors. You’ll find underground thrills, too—the Frasassi caves are an exceptionally well-maintained cavern system, with otherworldly-looking formations in its depths.
To enjoy all that Le Marche has to offer, you have a choice of bases, from towns to villages… Here’s a round-up of some of the best, traveling from my old home in the southern Marche to the northern towns and villages…
Ascoli Piceno—A Liveable, Active City
Ascoli is a special place. Its beautiful monumental buildings are elegantly dressed in travertine, yet its laid-back atmosphere keeps it from being pretentious. Its streets are lined with historic palaces, two grand piazzas, a gorgeous cathedral, and museums filled with archaeological treasures and artwork. But there’s also a bit of grit and graffiti to remind you that this isn’t a tourist town. It is a city that is, above all, lived in. Smart shops mingle with cool cafés and homey eateries. There’s always something to do: art exhibits among Roman ruins, concerts in the piazza, food festivals, a twice-weekly market that spills over several streets, or opera in the velvet-draped theater.
The city’s heart is the awe-inspiring Piazza del Popolo, a rectangular, travertine expanse outlined by arcaded buildings and dominated at one end by the great Gothic church of San Francesco. It is here that the Ascolani have a stroll, meet friends, and preen. It’s been dubbed one of Italy’s most beautiful piazzas for a reason, and it is the city’s living room.
Ascoli, as it’s usually known, is called the City of a Hundred Towers. At one time its skyline bristled with tall stone medieval structures. Today about 50 remain in various forms, some retooled to be bell towers, while others are private homes. They ensure the city keeps much of its medieval character.
I liked the look of one place, with wood floors and a balcony, in the heart of the city, for $640 a month. If you’re interested in buying, sale prices have fallen. I saw a pretty attic apartment with gleaming wood floors and beamed ceilings that was nicely redone and ready to move into, with the furniture included, for $163,000 (click here for more information). Another place in the historic center, recently restored, had brick vaulted ceilings, exposed stone, and a loft in addition to its bedroom, on offer for $95,500, also including the furnishings. For more details, click here.
Around Ascoli
One of the truly undiscovered gems of Le Marche is the village of Acquaviva Picena. The rotund ramparts of its perfectly-preserved castle welcome you to the handsome historic center, where a handful of lazy lanes with character-filled brick buildings bask in the sun. It is just minutes from the bustling seafront city of San Benedetto del Tronto, but up on its airy hill it has a commanding view and a gentle breeze. Ascoli is around 30 minutes away.
Smoke from the clippings of grape vines wafts along the valley, where olive trees shimmer. Looking to the east, the ripples of the Adriatic Sea glisten toward the horizon.
Acquaviva Picena is small, a village really, but there are a few shops and coffee bars, three restaurants, a pharmacy, a grocery store, and a couple of banks. A plethora of stores, restaurants, and clubs are less than 10 minutes away in San Benedetto, where the “Palm Riviera” also offers wide beaches and waterfront entertainment. I spied a smattering of “for sale” signs tacked to doors in the historic center, where prices are surprisingly affordable, considering its position so close to the sea. Locals prefer the newer housing, while the charming stone houses in the old center go for lower sums.
A four-level home in the center, with vaulted stone ceilings, two bedrooms, and two baths, is going for $137,000. With some cosmetic updating it could be a fantastic townhome just minutes from the sea. Click here for more information. Another four-story, Old-World townhome has sea and hill views and is ready to move into for $205,400. If a small vacation home is all you want, a cute little apartment is listed for just $89,000. For more information, see here.
Nearby Ripatransone, in the hills above Grottammare, unfurls itself along a crest. The honey-hued brick buildings are still hemmed in by the ancient protective walls, and its streets show off well-tended houses decked out in decorative iron balconies and gates. It may be small but it boasts some museums, some good restaurants, a decadent pastry shop, and attractive ambience. It also lays claim to an unusual attraction—the narrowest street in Italy. Tourists come here just to snap pictures in the slender lane. Ripatransone also puts on a rollicking festival, the “Horse of Fire.” A fabulous fireworks-laden wooden horse parades up and down the town, shooting off fiery flares, in a tradition that dates back to 1682.
Affordable Italy—Live in Le Marche for $2,000 a Month
While Le Marche isn’t the cheapest place in Italy to live, it is more reasonable than neighboring regions and its central location makes it attractive to expats who want to live the Italian lifestyle at a reasonable price.
Costs on the Adriatic coast are higher, so go inland to save on housing expenses. The towns in the foothills of the Sibilline Mountains cost quite a bit less. For example, a two-bedroom home in Cingoli, in western Le Marche, rents for just $470 a month.
The area’s farming tradition and mild growing climate ensure abundant, low-priced produce throughout the year. If you shop at the weekly fresh market, for example, you can buy a whole sackful of vegetables for about $5. If you drive around the countryside, you’ll notice signs that say vendita diretta, indicating producers that sell their wine, olive oil, and other products directly from the farm. You usually pay less for the same products than you’ll pay at a grocery store.
A bottle of good local wine costs around $8, but a little-known and fun cost-saver is to take jugs to the wineries and fill them up from their vats for less than $2 a liter.
This is the heart of the Piceno wine country, where notable vintages are produced using regional heritage grapes not found in other parts of Italy. Ripatransone is close to the Adriatic Sea. Its park on the upper edge of town affords views of the water, while remaining cradled away in the quiet and idyllic vine-draped countryside.
The hills are steeper in this part of Le Marche, with some unusual erosion formations interrupting the grape vines. Almost every slope is staked out in vineyards, taking advantage of the sea breezes that funnel up the valleys and the abundant sunshine to produce outstanding wines.
The Central Countryside
Most of Le Marche’s expats have chosen to live in the central swath—inland from the sea, while still in reach of it for a day at the beach when desired. Timeless towns are strung along the hilltops, complete with castles and cobbled streets, while farmhouses dot the countryside. Life still carries on at a relaxed pace, where you can buy just-made pasta from the little shop, then pop down the street to the butcher and fresh market. Most towns have at least a handful of stores, restaurants, and coffee bars. Here among the rolling hills are some English-speaking enclaves where you’ll find restored farmhouses or town apartments.
Here the hills are gentler and valleys wider. There are lots of country towns surrounded by fields and olive groves. Prices can be high; many farmhouses have been bought up and demand has risen. Most renovated farmhouses are listed for more than $400,000, but those expats who are selling are also including the furnishings, saving you those additional expenses. Sprawling homes with land and gardens may just be worth the price to bask in the sunlight, halfway between the mountains and the sea.
I did spot a couple of good deals, though. A nice stone house near Montelparo has two bedrooms plus a studio, laundry room, and two bathrooms. It has the added allure of being in a resort complex with a swimming pool, tennis court, and mini-golf course, and it’s going for $226,000. See here for more details. Another option is a classic-style, three-bedroom brick farmhouse just outside Mogliano, listed for $308,000. For further details on this property, click here.
Cingoli is in the northern part of this central swathe of Le Marche. Spring comes later here at 2,000 feet above sea level. A fine mist met me when I arrived, but despite it, there were lots of people out on the two-mile-long walking path, with gorgeous vistas, which leads outside town. Cingoli is called the “balcony of the Marche” for good reason. It sits above the surrounding countryside and the views extend for miles, across the countryside and down to the sea.
The most popular choices for expats looking to buy are the old “casa colonica” farmhouses. They aren’t the cheapest option in Le Marche—the towns and cities offer better value—but the area from Cingoli down to Sarnano presents some decent buys for those seeking the traditional house in a country setting. For example, a three-story, three-bedroom home near San Ginesio, on a small plot of land along a paved road, has been restored and is ready to move into. It is on offer for $205,400. Click here for more. Another property near Smerillo has two cute, restored stone cottages, giving you one to live in and one for guests, with a price tag of just $205,400. See here for further details.
Urbino—Art and History
In the north of Le Marche you’ll find Urbino, a Renaissance city of nearly 16,000 people, which is considered the province’s art capital. When you arrive you’re greeted by a stately city gate and a cobbled street beyond it that climbs up to the main piazza. Urbino was the birthplace of painter Raphael, and, while definitely worth a visit, it’s not for the feeble-footed as a spot to live.
This would be a good city for those wanting to invest in a rental property. With a popular university, there is no lack of students and faculty looking for housing during term-time. The home is then free for you to use in the summer months. I saw one listing for a three-bedroom apartment in the heart of town for $160,000.
About a 40-minute’ drive on a ribbon of road through the undulating landscape east of Urbino takes you to the town of Urbania.
This place took my fancy. When I arrived I found a tidy town, with rows of market stalls outlining a park and trailing down a side street. I noticed that the most popular stall was the porchetta truck, which served panini of hot, roasted suckling pig for just $3.
Urbania is small enough to be walkable but still has stores, restaurants and atmosphere… you’ll find old palaces and narrow lanes where 300-year-old (or more) buildings are still lived in.
I found a restored one-bedroom apartment with wooden ceilings, in a prestigious palace, listed for $134,200. Another one-bedroom place, with a cantina storeroom, a small courtyard, and in need of restoration, is going for $68,400, while a two-bedroom home overlooking the river is listed for $102,700. It needs updating but has nice views. Click here for more details.
You’ll discover a handful of museums in Urbania, along with decorated and frescoed churches, ceramics artisans, and a more macabre attraction, the Cemetery of the Mummies, a crypt where each “resident” has a unique story, gloriously recounted by the docent.
Outside town are archaeological sites, country castles, and nature parks. I spied walking trails and horse-riding farms. The town is level, making it easy to get around, while just minutes away are lots of active pursuits.
Castle-Town Living in Le Marche
It seems there is a castle at nearly every turn when you’re in Le Marche. Corinaldo—in the rolling hills about an hour south of Urbino—may just be the perfect small town. Named as one of Italy’s prettiest villages, it sits proudly on its hill encircled by walls. The “new gate” leading into the medieval center dates to 1490. The main street circles upward in typical Middle-Ages fashion, with shops, banks, palaces, cafés, and hair stylists all along its route.
There are towers, battlements, and imposing buildings softened by flower boxes. A walkway goes all the way around Corinaldo, following those protective walls.
Just a few miles away, Mondavio is a compact hamlet with bastions and tight, tidy streets. Shouts of stunted Italian filled the air when I was there, and the barista explained that the shouts were from students at the Dante School, here to study what she called “unadulterated Italian.”
Property prices in Corinaldo are high, thanks to a Dutch reality-TV show filmed in the area. Apartments in town are priced at $267,000 and up, with farmhouses in need of costly rebuilding going for that much and more. Renting is a better option. I spied a two-story, two-bedroom house in the historic center listed for $536.
The Conero—The Beautiful Coast
While much of the coastline is marred by unsightly concrete apartment blocks, the notable exception is the Conero, just south of Ancona. The petite promontory is made of limestone cliffs and sandy beaches and sits in a nature preserve. It is a fashionable spot among Italian celebrities, attractive for its clean sea and hidden coves but also for its pristine landscape. In the hills of the promontory, olive groves and sunflower fields are interspersed with vineyards.
The town of Sirolo sits on the cliff, which has stairs and paths that lead to the sea. The setting is spectacular and the village neat and tidy. Numana is a fishing village with justifiably good seafood restaurants. This is paradise for sea enthusiasts.
Because the coast commands higher prices, there are lots of expensive villas. But if you’re willing to live in the narrow lanes of the old part of town—which is more charming than the modern construction, anyway—you can have a seaside home that won’t break the bank. In Sirolo, for example, I saw a two-story house made of native Conero stone, with wood floors, two bedrooms, and a courtyard, for $187,000.
Editor’s Note: Steenie Harvey, our intrepid European editor, will be on hand at International Living’sFast-Track Your Retirement Overseas Conference 2014 in Las Vegas in October. She’ll be joined by our other Europe experts who have recently scouted France, Spain, and Ireland. But during the Conference you can talk to this faculty about all that Europe has to offer. To learn more about how to attend this conference, see here.
It’s not just bargains for an Italian retirement on offer—Europe right now is also where you’ll find real estate investments at fire sale prices, if you know where to look. For more information read this article in your August 2014 issue: Buy Right for Profit and Your Enjoyment on Portugal’s Algarve.
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As I walk across the sunny piazza I think how easy it is to feel at home in Ascoli Piceno.
I’m still blurry-eyed when I arrive at the coffee bar, but without my having to say a word, a frothy cappuccino is placed before me, followed by a cornetto filled with a dab of sweet almond paste. The barista, Giuliano, smiles broadly and then chats about the happenings in the neighborhood.
I called this small city home for three years before moving to the southern end of Italy. Returning now, it’s as if I never left. Giuliano remembers my morning ritual, the shoe vendor at the mercato greets me as though he saw me just last week, and I easily slide back into my comfortable routine.
Ascoli is the southernmost city in Le Marche, just across the border from Abruzzo. With 60,000 proud residents, it’s a lively place, with gorgeous travertine buildings and a large but lived-in historic center.
Ascoli is just one corner of Le Marche, a hidden region that offers the classic Italian lifestyle of good food, great wine, and cultural attractions for around $2,000 a month for a couple, and that’s including rent.
If you dream of life among rolling hills dotted with stone farmhouses and patchwork views of cultivated fields, sunflowers, olives groves, and grapevines, Le Marche is the place. There are no large cities; the biggest is Ancona, the regional capital, with about 100,000 people.
Towns here are on a human scale, often small enough to get around on foot, by bike, or scooter. Most are large enough to have shops, restaurants, cultural attractions, and services, yet remain small enough to be personal and engaging.
While it often resembles its neighbors, Umbria and Tuscany, with its hills and golden sunlight, Le Marche is still distinct.
And despite the appeal and art it holds, it remains largely off the tourist track. And that’s just fine with the Marchigiani, who are practical, unpretentious kinds of folk. They like their slow-paced lifestyle, while welcoming visitors who take the time to come and experience it for themselves.
Le Marche rests between the Adriatic Sea to the east and the soaring Sibillini Mountains to the west, part of the central Apennine range. These mountains mean that invaders (and tourists) have had little impact here. Between the mountains and the sea you’ll find honey-colored towns hugging the tops of hills and overlooking fertile and bucolic river valleys.
Sometimes it’s faster to drive down to the coast and up the next valley, rather than taking the squiggly inland roads that scale and then descend the inland hills.
Le Marche, Italy has good food, great wine, and is the perfect place to experience the classic Italian lifestyle.
Miles of palm-lined sandy beaches march up the Adriatic Coast, making it the “palm Riviera.” Most of the seaside towns are modern-built resorts popular with locals, vacationing Italians, and northern Europeans. Unfortunately, the major A-3 motorway and the railway line front the sea, making it a noisy place to live and marring the views. But the beaches are easily accessible and the water is inviting during the summer heat.
Le Marche is still rural at heart and farming is still a respected profession; the use of GMOs is banned and organic farming methods are the norm. Fishing is also an important trade and San Benedetto del Tronto is one of Italy’s most important centers for freezing and packing fish.
But Le Marche isn’t “backwoods.” It was the birthplace of the noted Renaissance figures Raphael and Bramante, the opera composer Gioachino Rossini, and Italy’s beloved poet, Giacomo Leopardi. There is a renowned opera festival in Macerata and glorious art galleries in all the larger towns. Cultural events, exhibitions, and grand historic festivals are part of the joy of living here. The Republic of San Marino, the world’s oldest sovereign city-state, sits partially within the confines of Le Marche.
Dramatic scenery and natural wonders also abound. From the limestone cliffs on the Conero peninsula to the canyons, gorges, and waterfalls of the mountains, there is much to enjoy in the great outdoors. You’ll find underground thrills, too—the Frasassi caves are an exceptionally well-maintained cavern system, with otherworldly looking formations in its depths.
To enjoy all that Le Marche has to offer, you have a choice of bases, from southern Le Marche to the northern towns and villages…
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Cheerful songbirds greet you as you enjoy a rich Italian coffee on your terrace. The sun rises from the direction of the Adriatic Sea—a mere half-hour drive away. When the day ends the sun will set over the mountains casting dreamy pink hues across the landscape.
This is the life in the Le Marche region at the heart of Italy. Its rolling hills have a time-honored, laidback lifestyle, without the rush and fuss of urban schedules.
In between the Sibillini Mountains and the beaches of the Adriatic’s Palm Riviera are mountain trails for biking and trekking, hot springs at Sarnano with a spa, and plenty of country lanes for walking and enjoying the clean air, tranquility and expansive views.
Expats have been especially attracted to the area known as The Golden Triangle, between Sarnano, Amandola, Penna San Giovanni, and San Ginesio. So-called for the sunny effect of golden-hued brick, these pretty towns are small enough to have a sense of community, where you can feel like a local, yet large enough to offer plenty of stores, excellent restaurants, coffee bars, and weekly markets.
You can enjoy the change of seasons, yet winters are mild and summers aren’t excessively hot. This area satisfies outdoor enthusiasts as well as beach lovers, while being able to return home to a tranquil spot away from the crowds.
The area has grown, but real estate is still good value. For example, you could find a three-bedroom home just five minutes from San Ginesio, nicely restored, for $179,000. You’ll get gorgeous mountain views here and a terrace provides shade for summer dining.
If you prefer the advantages of town life, you’ll find a cutely restored apartment in the heart of San Ginesio. Priced from just $61,000, it’s two-stories with two bedrooms and two bathrooms, pretty exposed brick walls and views of the undulating hills, while a rooftop terrace could easily be added for outdoor space.
Bargain hunters will like the cute, sun-lit cottage on an acre of land I came across. It’s a one-bedroom property going for $72,000. You could use this as a holiday home, with scope for expansion in the future. It is in a private tranquil setting but just a few minutes from Sarnano, and there is plenty of room for a swimming pool.
Or maybe you dream of a beautiful farmhouse, in a private setting, that is already restored and ready to move into. I found a rustic stone cottages on sale for $199,500 where you can immediately start enjoying the quiet splendor of the hills and views at Casa Anemoni near Force.
Expats often meet for a drink or a barbecue, and to exchange English language books. These small towns have been welcoming foreign residents, mostly English, Dutch and Americans, for about a decade, though the zone has blossomed rather quietly, without spikes in the real estate prices. You can still pick up a good-value home to relax and enjoy the Italian lifestyle for less.
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Italy’s Le Marche is a hidden region, its patchwork of rolling hills dotted with stone farmhouses surrounded by sunflowers, olives groves, and grapevines. Here you’ll find the classic Italian lifestyle of good food, great wine, and cultural attractions, all for around $2,000 a month for a couple, including rent. The cuisine is varied and delectable, whether you’re in the hills or on the sea. Here are some of the specialties you should try...
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Rome is undeniably alluring with its historical monuments, jaw-dropping artwork, trendy restaurants, and cultural events. But living in the city is expensive and sometimes just not desirable for those who prefer the rhythm of small town life. Luckily, you can have the best of both worlds. There are some beautiful towns where you can enjoy a laidback lifestyle while still being able to reach the center of Italy's capital city Rome in just an hour.
It might seem strange to say that I’m a beach person, having spent much of my adult life as a desert dweller. But every vacation during those years was to the ocean, because while I loved life in New Mexico, I craved the ocean and needed at least one week of soaking myself in salt water to regenerate.
Now we live in the mountains of inland Basilicata, but thankfully our location is just about equidistant from two seas. My preference is the deeper water and more interesting coastline of the Mediterranean, more specifically, the Cilento Coast.
This lesser-known seaside destination is south of the renowned Amalfi Coast, but a world away from the glitz and crowds. While the Amalfi road plunges and twists insanely, the Cilento’s 60-mile stretch of coastline ambles from the ancient Greek ruins of Paestum to the rocky resort of Palinuro. In between are fishing villages and hill towns that offer quintessential southern Italian hospitality. And—unlike the Amalfi Coast’s tiny rocky coves—the beaches of Cilento are sandy, wide, and easily accessible.
The Cilento is also Italy’s second largest national park, and encompasses not only the coastline, but also the inland hills and Apennine Mountains. There are vast untouched natural spaces, loads of trails for hiking and horse riding, rivers for rafting, medieval hill towns, and the remains of ancient Greek and Roman cities to explore, making it a year-round delight.
We were lucky to discover this little-known shore on one of our earliest visits to Italy, and have returned often, and in all seasons, to enjoy the beaches, walk on the sand, relax to the rhythm of the waves, and eat excellent seafood. We love the still-authentic towns and the fact that they have a year-round life, not just summer resorts. In fact, lately we’ve been kicking around the idea of buying a small place there as a weekend escape and getaway, to be closer to the water when we need a break from the mountains.
While looking at real estate listings, I discovered renting may be an affordable option, though. While summer prices for vacation home apartments start at about $500 a week, many owners are willing to forego those few weeks of elevated prices for a full year of rental income.
In historic Paestum, a trio of ancient Greek temples are incredibly well preserved. They’re not just breathtaking, but also the location of musical and cultural events. Paestum also has a long shoreline of sandy beaches, and is the center of delectable mozzarella di bufala (buffalo mozzarella) production. Here, I saw a listing for a newly-built townhome for rent with two bedrooms and one bath, fully furnished, just steps from the sea for $503 a month.
Down the coast is my favorite location, Castellabate. This beautiful gem is actually a collection of three towns—the old medieval center on the hill with its square castle on top, and two seaside towns. Santa Maria di Castellabate is the main center offering more services, a kilometer-long promenade lined with shops, and a lengthy expanse of seafront to enjoy. There is a beautiful beach anchored by a castle right in the heart of town, plenty of cafés, and a nice vibe. Despite its popularity (and high prices) in the summer, I found a one-bedroom apartment for rent right in the center of town for $436 a month. Apartments of this type go for $600 per week in summer.
Next door is San Marco di Castellabate, which maintains a fishing village character with its marina and small-town ambiance. Every day a fleet of fishing boats bring in the fresh catch and sell the fish right on the dock. It has a handful of good restaurants, an upscale spa, and loads of atmosphere. Here, I saw listings for a few nice furnished apartments, including one on the edge of town that has been recently and tastefully renovated with two bedrooms, two ample balconies, and new furnishings, for just $391 a month.
Another new apartment with two bedrooms and new furniture has a wide terrace with views of the olive-covered hills, the old town of Castellabate, and the sea for $503 a month.
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Italy offers endless sights and historical attractions; I could list a hundred just in Rome alone. There’s so much to see no matter where you go. But part of the pleasure of “la dolce vita” is combining sightseeing, with unique only-in-Italy experiences. Here’s my 10 things to do, that take you beyond a list of sights, to truly living “Italian style” during your visit.
10. Soak in hot springs.
Italy is littered with the remains of ancient bath complexes and mosaic-covered pools…proving that the ancient Romans loved to lounge in hot water. Curative therapies and spas are actually part of the national healthcare system. You’ll find hot springs from the Alps down to the toe, but the most famous and abundant are on the island of Ischia and in Tuscany. Whether you want a natural rock pool or a spa facility with relaxation treatments, a soak in some hot springs to unwind after sightseeing is a great idea.
9. BYOB.
Italy is renowned for its wines, with each region having its own heritage vintage, so a wine tasting is definitely in order. You can schedule a full formal tasting, but a fun Italian tradition is called vino sfuso (literally “loose wine”); take a jug or bottle to the winery or wine shop that offers it and get your bottles filled up from the vats, for about €2 ($2.35) a liter. Not every winery offers sfuso but you can find some in every region.
8. Find a folk festival, or sagra.
A sagra is a down-home food festival dedicated to a particular delicacy, and it’s a fun experience. It’s often held in conjunction with a religious feast day, but the sagra is all about the food. You’ll eat well (and cheap), mix it up with the locals, and can hit the dance floor for a bit of free fun.
7. Get off the beaten path.
I’m not saying you shouldn’t visit Rome, Florence, and Venice (you should) but get out and see some smaller cities or less-known regions as well. There are gorgeous landscapes and fascinating towns throughout Italy. You’ll be rewarded with a sense of discovery and lower prices than the main tourist spots. For example, Le Marche, Umbria, or towns in northern Lazio are less explored but no less interesting than well-known Tuscan towns, but aren’t nearly as crowded or pricey.
6. Drive a Ferrari.
Come on, admit it; you’ve fantasized about pushing the pedal of a red speed machine like a Ferrari, so why not indulge your fantasy for a 20-minute thrill ride. On the outskirts of Modena, where Ferraris are made, you can visit the legendary car maker’s museum and then get behind the wheel for an unforgettable rocket ride. There are several companies that will let you drive, either on the streets or a race track, from a 10-minute test drive, or up to two hours through the countryside. The area between Modena and Bologna is known as “Motor Valley” so if a Ferrari doesn’t do it for you, you’ll also find Lamborghini, Maserati, and Pagani all located here.
5. Catch an opera.
Italy is the birthplace of opera, along with its most famous composers, such as Verdi, Rossini, Puccini, and Vivaldi. There are sumptuous venues to take in an opera, including La Scala in Milan, La Fenice in Venice, and Teatro San Carlo in Naples, and you’ll also find some fabulous open-air operas. An evening at the Roman amphitheater in Verona, the ancient Baths of Caracalla in Rome, or the neo-classic style arena in Macerata, Le Marche (birthplace of Rossini) would be an unforgettable experience.
4. Stay in a castle or palazzo.
Italy’s long history means there are medieval castles and Renaissance palaces scattered all over. Many of them are now elegant hotels offering sumptuous stays, and a chance to surround yourself in history. You’ll find Tuscan castles, Palladian-style villas, and many other historic buildings where you can feel like you’re in a fairytale. Some are listed at Dimore Storiche Italiane (www.dimorestoricheitaliane.it).
3. Visit a UNESCO World Heritage Site or two.
The UN’s program of preserving sites of historic and cultural significance gives you a ready list of fascinating places to visit. Italy has 41 UNESCO sites—more than any other country—so you’ll find some no matter where you go in the peninsula. Assisi and the Amalfi Coast are two examples, but there’s also the royal palace of Caserta or the Etruscan necropolis of Cerveteri. You’ll find a list here (http://whc.unesco.org/en/statesparties/it).
2. Visit an Island.
There’s something about an island that makes you slow down, breathe deeply, and really relax, so I recommend getting off the mainland for a day. While you could easily spend your whole trip on Sicily or Sardinia, there are easily-accessible islands to visit for a day or two, as well. Try glittery Capri, less-known Ponza between Rome and Naples, or enchanting Elba, in the Tuscan archipelago.
1. Eat like a local.
Italian cuisine is not just a highlight of any trip, it’s often the focal point. Each region has its own specialties; indeed, for many Italians “ethnic food” is something from another region rather than a foreign country. You’ll find excellent eateries anywhere you go—but if you really want to go local and eat like an Italian—then get a “home food” experience and dine with a family. They’ll prepare their area’s specialties and you’ll get the bonus of being part of the Italian famiglia (family) for an evening. You can find and book a home dining dinner at Le Cesarine (https://www.cesarine.it/en/) or Casa Mia Food and Wine Tours (http://www.italyfoodandwinetours.com/).
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Tuscany certainly needs no introduction. You see evidence of its popularity everywhere. Its name is used to sell everything from ceramics to sofas, suburban homes to sandwiches, and even packaged food products like “Tuscan” flavored dog food! It is, without a doubt, Italy’s most famous and favored region. It has names that ring familiar to everyone: Florence, Pisa, Siena, and Chianti. And who hasn’t heard of Under the Tuscan Sun?
But just what defines Tuscany, anyway? And where is it?
Where Exactly is Tuscany?
Tuscany is the largest of Italy’s 20 regions, located slightly north of the center of the peninsula, with a long stretch of Mediterranean coast. It encompasses 8,800 square miles and has a population of 3.7 million inhabitants. It borders Lazio, Umbria, Le Marche, Emilia Romagna, and Liguria. The region is broken down into ten provinces, more than any other region: Massa Carrara, Lucca, Pisa, Livorno, Grosseto, Pistoia, Prato, Firenze, Arezzo, and Siena.
How Easy is it to Get Around?
Tuscany has two airports—Florence and Pisa. Because the region is so large, though, the airports of Bologna or Perugia may better serve the area you’re visiting. Rail connections are good throughout the region, with the primary rail hub in Florence. From here trains reach Milan in less than two hours and Rome in an hour and a half. There are regional bus companies that reach smaller towns throughout Tuscany.
The port cities of Livorno and Piombino provide ferry service. Piombino serves the Tuscan islands, including Elba, while Livorno’s lines go farther afield to Corsica, Sardinia, and Barcelona.
What is the Landscape like in Tuscany?
Tuscany’s borders encompass landscapes that include rolling hills, lunar-like clay canyons, rocky mountains, and coastal plains, along with an archipelago of islands. It even has a ‘desert’ of arid chalk and clay hills near Siena. The highest point is Mt. Prado in the Apennines, at 2,054 meters above sea level (6,738 feet).
About 25% of Tuscany is mountainous. The Apennine mountain range rambles through the region and the Apuan Alps crowd the northwest part of Tuscany in the areas known as the Garfagnana and Lunigiana, which are rugged and more isolated than the rest of the region.
With nearly 250 miles of coastline, there are loads of beaches, many of them undeveloped and in protected parks, with coastal dunes and undisturbed nature along with miles of beach umbrellas in parts. The hills of Monte Argentario and Punta Ala are some of the prettiest seaside areas. Much of the coast is highly seasonal, though cities like Massa, Carrara, Livorno, and Viareggio do have a year-round economy and life apart from the beach. Massa and Carrara are at the Liguria border, close to the famous Cinque Terre villages. Pisa sits slightly inland and was one of Italy’s mighty maritime republics in the Middle Ages.
Much of the region—about 67% of it—is comprised of those bucolic hills and picture-perfect landscapes. The central swath between Florence and Siena and beyond are tended, cultivated, time-worn hills with olive groves, grapevines, and cypress-line lanes punctuated by castles and well-kept hilltop towns. Acclaimed wines are produced here.
Around Grosseto, in the area known as the Maremma, the low hills and wind-swept prairies are still frequented by Tuscan cowboys who raise the region’s famed Chianina cattle.
What Cities and Towns Should I Visit?
Tuscany’s most famous city is Florence, the heart of the Renaissance, and the city that holds an estimated 10% of the world’s most renowned art treasures. Siena, famous for its slanted, shell-shaped main square, its medieval monuments, and its high-energy annual horse race called Il Palio, is another well-known jewel.
Pisa, with its infamous leaning tower and Campo dei Miracoli, is a day-trippers’ destination but has much more to it than the handful of sights most people see. Lucca is still encased within its walls and is an elegant, easy-going city. Arezzo is an art-filled place that was featured in the film, Life is Beautiful, whose antique fairs, festivals, and lively ambiance make it a great destination. Cortona was a sleepy hill town that is now a major tourist destination thanks to a book and movie (Under the Tuscan Sun) that put it on the world-wide tourism map.
If you’re looking for lesser-known towns, go around the periphery of Tuscany and try Pistoia, Massa, Lucca, Manciano, Pitigliano, and Sansepolcro. The region holds hundreds of charming small towns. Some are well-trod, like Montalcino, the Chianti towns, Pienza, and Montepulciano, while others have stayed off the radar but have historic appeal and lovely landscapes. There is an expat presence in even the smallest hamlets, though, as the region has long been a favored spot for foreigners.
Tuscany has a high concentration of historic sights and is a culturally-rich region, holding seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites, renowned events, and celebrated landscapes.
It’s not uncommon for travelers to fall in love with Italy on their first trip, but Matthew Daub took “love at first sight” to a new level: he was smitten before he’d even made it out of the airport. His first trip with his wife, Barbara, was in 1994 as part of a large art-related travel group. And right away he was seduced by the natural exuberance, style, and linguistic cadence of the Italians.
“We hadn’t even left Fiumicino Airport before I said to Barb, ‘We’ve got to keep coming back here.'” Matthew grew up in New York and spent a lot of time around Italians. “I always loved their approach to life and sense of family. I honestly enjoy sitting in a café, and observing life, and writing in my travel journal as much as visiting any museum or cultural site.”
A talented artist, Matthew has spent the past 30 years teaching watercolor and drawing at a university in Pennsylvania. “Painting in Italy excites me, and I love doing it with friends,” he says. So, it was a natural for him to start leading small, arts-oriented tours in Italy.
Matthew and Barb started “Arts Sojourns” in 1998, and have been leading groups of artists and others to their favorite destinations around Italy ever since. They take care of all the details, so the travelers can relax, enjoy the experience, and be creative within a small, supportive group environment while being inspired by some of Italy’s most beautiful scenery.
While many group tours are formulaic and regimented, the Daubs decided they wanted to take it slow, offer a semi-structured format, and foster creativity. “We consider ourselves planners and facilitators more than tour leaders,” says Matthew. “We prepare and equip them and have enough group activities to maintain cohesiveness and camaraderie, but the last thing I want to do is to lead tourists around with a flag or a paddle and interpret everything for them. We want our clients to return home feeling like they’ve been immersed in the culture and had an adventure.”
Their trips aren’t limited to painters, though. They’ve had many creative guests that include photographers, writers, and musicians. “We’ve had a portrait photographer who has traveled with us four times and has done a private sitting with each person in the group. We had musicians who did a presentation on Puccini when we were in the composer’s hometown of Lucca. It’s always an eclectic and interesting mix of creative people. We call our program ‘A vacation for artists and their friends’ because we take the non-artists’ needs just as seriously as the artists’ and I think we appeal to more independent travelers who might not otherwise be attracted to a group,” says Matthew.
Leading small groups allows the Daubs to travel a few times a year and explore new places as they seek out new territory to possibly add to their offerings. However, Matthew and Barbara put a lot of effort into planning the trips. They organize four-star hotels, visits to hidden gems, local festivals, and make sure to find beautiful scenery that most people wouldn’t discover on their own the first time around.
The pay-off is the chance to spend time in Italy each summer, and share it with others. Leading tours subsidizes their own Italy travels, and portions of the trips are legitimate tax deductions. But with a high number of repeat guests, they say the real satisfaction is seeing their clients happy. “I love when a great plan comes together, and it’s extremely gratifying to see our ‘Sojourners’ having a terrific time and making new discoveries and knowing we facilitated it,” says Matthew.
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Umbria seems like a study in contrasts. It’s wedged between Rome and Tuscany, so plenty of travelers pass through it, yet it manages to not feel overly touristy. It has divinely decorated cathedrals, as well as vast tracts of woods—including an enchanted forest that locals say is inhabited by fairies (a sign asks you to seek the woodland creatures’ permission before you enter their realm). It is both rural and refined, full of culture and outdoor activities, too. There are hiking trails, river rafting, and world-renowned festivals like the Spoleto Festival and Umbria Jazz. It isn’t remote and yet it isn’t overrun. It is what many expats consider the “perfect” location. With only two bona fide cities, Perugia and Terni, life is laidback and on a human scale.
Umbria seems to encapsulate the best scenery and aspects of Italian life into one land-locked region. Here you’ll find perfectly preserved hill towns at every turn, where villages have a sense of life and history, and enough services to satisfy daily needs. The vine-striped hills produce excellent wines—Sagrantino di Montefalco ranks up there among the most noted vintages by casual quaffers and wine snobs alike, and Orvieto is a white that is perfect for summer enjoyment.
From earthy truffles on pasta to hearty meats to abundant fresh vegetables grown in the region’s fertile fields, the food of Umbria bears resemblance to its neighboring regions, Lazio and Tuscany, yet with its own flair that comes from using local products, like saffron, lentils, and exotic black celery.
Umbria’s villages, like Orvieto pictured here, are heavy with the weight of history.
On my recent trip around the region, I gaped in awe at the riot of frescoes by Signorelli in Orvieto, and stood in a surprisingly deserted church in Città della Pieve, where the Adoration of the Magi by Renaissance master Il Perugino was all mine to admire. I was offered coffee by strangers in Umbertide, given samples of local olive oil in Todi, and was the grateful recipient a special meal in Narni—off menu, because the chef thought I absolutely had to taste the truffles. These weren’t experiences granted to me as a journalist, but just a casual traveler receiving the Umbrian hospitality.
I loved the variations of landscapes—from thick woods, to verdant valleys, to gentle hills blanketed with expanses of glinting olive groves and straight lines of vines. Cypress trees outlined country lanes, castles sprinkled the hilltops, and I swear I couldn’t tell the difference between this landscape and more-famous Tuscany. Except for the prices.
Take two similar hill towns, Umbria’s Città della Pieve and Tuscany’s Montepulciano, separated across the rolling hills by only 30 kilometers and in view of each other. A cappuccino in Città della Pieve was $1.50, while in Montepulciano it was $1.90. A plate of handmade pasta with freshly grated truffles cost me $12 in Città della Pieve; in Montepulciano it was on the menu for $17. At a wine bar in Città della Pieve, I had a luscious glass of wine for $7.50, which included a plate of bruschetta and a cup of olives. In Montepulciano, a glass of wine was $17, with the snacks costing extra. I spotted several lovely, restored homes in the center of Città della Pieve for less than $124,000; in Montepulciano, none.
Umbria also has a significant expat community, so even small villages have some English-speaking residents to interact with. Yet prices are still more reasonable than I’d have thought, given its central location and charming advantages. There’s an airport in Perugia for inter-European flights, and Rome’s international terminal is within two hours from most of Umbria. The riches of Florence, Siena, and other jewels of Tuscany are in easy reach—but Umbria is easier on the budget.
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As I walk across the sunny piazza I think how easy it is to feel at home in Ascoli Piceno.
I’m still blurry-eyed when I arrive at the coffee bar, but without my having to say a word, a frothy cappuccino is placed before me, followed by a cornetto filled with a dab of sweet almond paste. The barista, Giuliano, smiles broadly and then chats about the happenings in the neighborhood.
I called this small city home for almost three years before moving to the southern end of Italy. Returning now, it’s as if I never left. Giuliano remembers my morning ritual, the shoe vendor at the mercato greets me as though he saw me just last week, and I easily slide back into my comfortable routine.
Ascoli is the southernmost city in Le Marche, just across the border from Abruzzo. With 60,000 proud residents, it’s a lively place, with gorgeous travertine buildings and a large but lived-in historic center.
Ascoli is just one corner of Le Marche, a hidden region that offers the classic Italian lifestyle of good food, great wine, and cultural attractions for around $1,845 a month for a couple, and that’s including rent.
If you dream of life among rolling hills dotted with stone farmhouses and patchwork views of cultivated fields, sunflowers, olives groves, and grapevines, Le Marche is the place. There are no large cities; the biggest is Ancona, the regional capital, with about 100,000 people.
Towns here are on a human scale, often small enough to get around on foot, by bike, or scooter. Most are large enough to have shops, restaurants, cultural attractions, and services, yet remain small enough to be personal and engaging. Cafes and restaurants offer great value, serving excellent wines and great regional cuisine, but without breaking the budget. A fabulously fresh three-course seafood lunch at a great little place in Ascoli Piceno set me back just $24 including wine.
While it often resembles its neighbors, Umbria and Tuscany, with its hills and golden sunlight, Le Marche is still distinct.
Le Marche rests between the Adriatic Sea to the east and the soaring Sibillini Mountains to the west, part of the central Apennine range. These mountains mean that invaders (and tourists) have had little impact here. Between the mountains and the sea you’ll find honey-colored towns hugging the tops of hills and overlooking fertile and bucolic river valleys.
Miles of palm-lined sandy beaches march up the Adriatic Coast, making it the “palm Riviera.” Most of the seaside towns are modern-built resorts popular with locals, vacationing Italians, and northern Europeans. Unfortunately, the major A-3 motorway and the railway line front the sea, making it a noisy place to live and marring the views. But the beaches are easily accessible and the water is inviting during the summer heat.
Le Marche is still rural at heart and farming is still a respected profession; the use of GMOs is banned and organic farming methods are the norm. Fishing is also an important trade and San Benedetto del Tronto is one of Italy’s most important centers for freezing and packing fish.
But Le Marche isn’t “backwoods.” It was the birthplace of the noted Renaissance figures Raphael and Bramante (Urbino), the opera composer Gioachino Rossini (Pesaro), and Italy’s beloved poet, Giacomo Leopardi (Recanati). There is a renowned opera festival in Macerata and glorious art galleries in all the larger towns. Cultural events, exhibitions, and grand historic festivals are part of the joy of living here. The Republic of San Marino, the world’s oldest sovereign city-state, sits partially within the confines of Le Marche.
From the limestone cliffs on the Conero peninsula to the canyons, gorges, and waterfalls of the mountains, there is much to enjoy in the great outdoors. You’ll find underground thrills, too—the Frasassi caves are an exceptionally well-maintained cavern system, with otherworldly looking formations in its depths.
With many attractive towns to choose from, you can live in the hills in sight of a castle, or along the Palm Riviera. Rent is affordable just about everywhere, so you can enjoy a relaxed lifestyle, Le Marche-style. You can find furnished rentals in most hill towns for €400 ($490) per month, while provincial cities, such as Ascoli Piceno, Fermo and Macerata, run around €600 ($735) per month for a nice, furnished apartment. Even swanky seaside Pesaro, with its museums, art and music as well as coveted coastline, has rentals between €650 to €800 per month ($796 to $980).
Factoring in all the costs of life, including rent, utilities, cell phones, internet, groceries and dining out, a couple can live comfortably here for $1,845 per month.
If you decide to make Le Marche your new home you have an abundance of bases to choose from, and with good food, great wine, and affordability, it is the perfect place to experience the classic Italian lifestyle.
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Italy offers endless sights and historical attractions; I could list a hundred just in Rome alone. There’s so much to see no matter where you go. But part of the pleasure of “la dolce vita” is combining sightseeing, with unique only-in-Italy experiences. Here’s my 10 things to do, that take you beyond a list of sights, to truly living “Italian style” during your visit.
10. Soak in hot springs.
Italy is littered with the remains of ancient bath complexes and mosaic-covered pools…proving that the ancient Romans loved to lounge in hot water. Curative therapies and spas are actually part of the national healthcare system. You’ll find hot springs from the Alps down to the toe, but the most famous and abundant are on the island of Ischia and in Tuscany. Whether you want a natural rock pool or a spa facility with relaxation treatments, a soak in some hot springs to unwind after sightseeing is a great idea.
9. BYOB.
Italy is renowned for its wines, with each region having its own heritage vintage, so a wine tasting is definitely in order. You can schedule a full formal tasting, but a fun Italian tradition is called vino sfuso (literally “loose wine”); take a jug or bottle to the winery or wine shop that offers it and get your bottles filled up from the vats, for about €2 ($2.35) a liter. Not every winery offers sfuso but you can find some in every region.
8. Find a folk festival, or sagra.
A sagra is a down-home food festival dedicated to a particular delicacy, and it’s a fun experience. It’s often held in conjunction with a religious feast day, but the sagra is all about the food. You’ll eat well (and cheap), mix it up with the locals, and can hit the dance floor for a bit of free fun.
7. Get off the beaten path.
I’m not saying you shouldn’t visit Rome, Florence, and Venice (you should) but get out and see some smaller cities or less-known regions as well. There are gorgeous landscapes and fascinating towns throughout Italy. You’ll be rewarded with a sense of discovery and lower prices than the main tourist spots. For example, Le Marche, Umbria, or towns in northern Lazio are less explored but no less interesting than well-known Tuscan towns, but aren’t nearly as crowded or pricey.
6. Drive a Ferrari.
Come on, admit it; you’ve fantasized about pushing the pedal of a red speed machine like a Ferrari, so why not indulge your fantasy for a 20-minute thrill ride. On the outskirts of Modena, where Ferraris are made, you can visit the legendary car maker’s museum and then get behind the wheel for an unforgettable rocket ride. There are several companies that will let you drive, either on the streets or a race track, from a 10-minute test drive, or up to two hours through the countryside. The area between Modena and Bologna is known as “Motor Valley” so if a Ferrari doesn’t do it for you, you’ll also find Lamborghini, Maserati, and Pagani all located here.
5. Catch an opera.
Italy is the birthplace of opera, along with its most famous composers, such as Verdi, Rossini, Puccini, and Vivaldi. There are sumptuous venues to take in an opera, including La Scala in Milan, La Fenice in Venice, and Teatro San Carlo in Naples, and you’ll also find some fabulous open-air operas. An evening at the Roman amphitheater in Verona, the ancient Baths of Caracalla in Rome, or the neo-classic style arena in Macerata, Le Marche would be an unforgettable experience.
4. Stay in a castle or palazzo.
Italy’s long history means there are medieval castles and Renaissance palaces scattered all over. Many of them are now elegant hotels offering sumptuous stays, and a chance to surround yourself in history. You’ll find Tuscan castles, Palladian-style villas, and many other historic buildings where you can feel like you’re in a fairytale. Some are listed at Dimore Storiche Italiane (www.dimorestoricheitaliane.it).
3. Visit a UNESCO World Heritage Site or two.
The UN’s program of preserving sites of historic and cultural significance gives you a ready list of fascinating places to visit. Italy has 41 UNESCO sites—more than any other country—so you’ll find some no matter where you go in the peninsula. Assisi and the Amalfi Coast are two examples, but there’s also the royal palace of Caserta or the Etruscan necropolis of Cerveteri. You’ll find a list here (http://whc.unesco.org/en/statesparties/it).
2. Visit an Island.
There’s something about an island that makes you slow down, breathe deeply, and really relax, so I recommend getting off the mainland for a day. While you could easily spend your whole trip on Sicily or Sardinia, there are easily-accessible islands to visit for a day or two, as well. Try glittery Capri, less-known Ponza between Rome and Naples, or enchanting Elba, in the Tuscan archipelago.
1. Eat like a local.
Italian cuisine is not just a highlight of any trip, it’s often the focal point. Each region has its own specialties; indeed, for many Italians “ethnic food” is something from another region rather than a foreign country. You’ll find excellent eateries anywhere you go—but if you really want to go local and eat like an Italian—then get a “home food” experience and dine with a family. They’ll prepare their area’s specialties and you’ll get the bonus of being part of the Italian famiglia (family) for an evening. You can find and book a home dining dinner at Le Cesarine (https://www.cesarine.it/en/) or Casa Mia Food and Wine Tours (http://www.italyfoodandwinetours.com/).
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With the heady fragrance of fresh truffle wafting from the kitchen, my mouth waters as I await the plate of handmade tagliolini pasta that will soon be coming my way, while sunlight filters onto the patio. It’s easy to think that this is the perfect Italian hill town. But then, there are so many to choose from.
I’m in Umbria, the region that lies between Rome and Florence at Italy’s geographic center, and this is my third hill town today. The problem with Umbria isn’t that gems are hard to find. It’s that there are too many. The region has a seemingly endless supply of utterly charming towns and picture-postcard landscapes.
Umbria, like neighboring Tuscany, is covered in rolling hills quilted with cultivated fields, tracts of vineyards, squares of olive groves, and stalks of sunflowers, all stitched together by lines of trees. With its Renaissance splendor, medieval monuments, and art-adorned churches, Umbria has been dubbed “the New Tuscany.” But I think, rather, it is the “old” Tuscany; Umbria clings to its agricultural roots and old-time traditions, to its quiet rhythms and its cultural heritage.
Except for its lack of a coastline, Umbria offers everything that Tuscany does, but at a much more affordable price point. A glass of wine at a bar with snacks can be enjoyed for €4 to €7 ($4.60 to $8). A plate of homemade pasta topped with prized white truffles set me back €10 ($11.50), as did a perfectly grilled super-tender steak of local beef. Pizza and beer for two is a worthy €20 ($23) outing. All told, with rent (from just $410 a month), utilities, car insurance and gas, groceries, and entertainment expenses, you could have a pretty charming life in Umbria with a budget of €1,350 (around $1,580) a month. Real estate in this region also won’t break the bank; you can have your own Umbrian idyll for as little as $57,400.
This well-kept town is one of those appealing places that is big enough to have everything you need, but small enough to maintain a sense of community.
Sitting above the Tiber River valley, Todi has maintained its agricultural economy. The valley is cultivated with grains, the hills with vines and olives. At the center of town is a piazza so perfect it almost looks as though it was made for a movie set. With monumental medieval buildings outlining it, it’s easy to see why it has been named one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy. And the honey-colored brick buildings cascading down the hillside seem to gleam in the sun.
I’m not going to lie to you: It’s steep. The streets are often stair-stepped and sloped, so if you have mobility issues, it may not be the best option for you. (Some of Todi’s steepness is overcome with a slick funicular that whisks you up to town.)
That said, I love Todi’s overall atmosphere; it’s got a warm aura to it and it gets my vote as the friendliest town. People seem to beam; their smiles and sing-songy buongiornos make me think they are genuinely happy there.
Todi hosts annual events like a tango festival and the week-long Todi Festival, which features art, music, theater, literature, and ballet. It has a velvet-lined, jewelry box-type theater, and a lovely park with tree-lined paths where I watched frolicking kids, mothers with baby carriages, and older gents with cute little dogs, all out for a morning stroll. Outside town is a swank spa resort and sophisticated wineries. I think it would be hard to be a vegetarian in Todi, though; I was lured by enticing smells of grilling meat in all quarters of town. Thick Fiorentina steaks, game meats, and battalions of chickens slow-roasting over open fires are some of the mouth-watering delicacies to be savored here.
As if Todi’s perfectly kept old town wasn’t enough, its setting among some spectacular woods and surprising river canyons gives it a natural appeal, as well. It’s also in a near-perfect “triangle,” only 50 minutes from Spoleto, Perugia, and Orvieto, if you want to get out for the day.
Todi has some surprising real estate bargains, too. Nice rental apartments start at just €350 a month. A cozy, bright, one-bedroom apartment right off the piazza, with wood-beam accents and a spacious storage room, lists for €49,000 ($57,357). An open-plan three-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment in the heart of town, just steps from the piazza, with terracotta floors, a fireplace, and a small balcony that offers views over the rooftops and the countryside, is available for €149,000 ($174,412). See: Todi-immobiliare.it.
Honestly? This one’s my favorite. It’s the town I would pick if I were to move to Umbria.
Unfurling itself across a ridge, it is elegant and graceful, yet friendly and easy-going. It doesn’t plunge, but rather creeps down the hill, spilling over just enough to exude hill-town ambience without being steep enough to hurt your legs. It has a refined air, with its provincial palazzi, panoramic overlooks, and Renaissance-era appeal. The cathedral and other churches were decorated by hometown hero Pietro Vannucci, the Renaissance master known as Il Perugino (a bit inaptly nicknamed, since he wasn’t actually from Perugia). His most famous work is in the Sistine Chapel, but he certainly endowed his own town with many masterpieces, as well.
Looking out to the northwest, the land melts into Tuscany; of course, it’s impossible to distinguish the difference. In this part of Umbria, the hills are softer and the valleys shallower. Silvery olive trees glisten in the sun; stripes of vines streak the fields, and the sunlight gives off an ethereal golden hue. In town, there are homey trattorias, everyday coffee bars, and high-end wine bars. An opulent theater hosts performances, and there are events throughout the year, including a blues festival and a tasty saffron fair, showcasing the town’s prized product. Pieve is known for growing saffron, so you’ll find creamy risottos and pasta sauces with the fragrant, vibrant herb. But don’t discount the savory, scrumptious wild boar sauce that’s made here, served on thick pappardelle pasta.
Despite its location at the Tuscan border, real estate prices are reasonable. One that really caught my eye was a cute, newly redone loft apartment in the town center. It makes the most of its small space of 550 square feet, with a fireplace, wood floors, and skylights, priced at €90,000 ($105,349). See: Casa.it. I also saw a lovely country cottage just a few miles from town with three bedrooms plus a separate two-bedroom apartment, terra cotta floors, a large patio, more than three acres of land with a huge garden offering views of the hills, along with woods and some olive trees, for €248,000 ($290,296). See: gate-away.com Rents start at a bargain €330 a month. A house with a pool is renting for just €500 ($585) while an apartment in a palazzo complete with frescoes is listed at €650 a month ($702).
Sumptuous Wine and Delectable Truffles in Città di Castello
This city of about 40,000 people sits along the Tiber River, just south of the Tuscan border. The old town is cradled in ancient protective walls and dotted with Renaissance palazzi, while its skyline is studded with towers. Churches, museums, and civic buildings are loaded with art by heavy hitters like Raphael, Pinturicchio, Pomarancio, and Signorelli.
The town center is lively and lived-in; it’s also level, making it easy to get around. Indeed, lots of folks were pedaling around on bikes. I found tempting pastry shops, cafés, and appetizing restaurants, along with plenty of pasted-up notices for upcoming festivals and exhibitions. The city hosts a noted wine festival, a kayak competition on the Tiber, a blues festival, and delectable food events. Truffles reign supreme, so be sure to try some strangozzi pasta with white and black truffles, a full sensory experience. Some restaurants have a full page of dishes bearing the prized tubers.
Property in Castello is also affordable. I spotted several apartments in the heart of town, convenient to everything, that were listed for just €70,000 ($81,938)…such as one smart two-bedroom with terrace and garage. (See: Nataloniagency.it.) A larger home in the center, with 1,240 square feet, spacious rooms clad in gleaming wood floors, and a fabulous roof terrace, lists for €150,000 ($175,582). (See: Gate-away.com.)
If you’re looking for country living, a totally renovated house that was a former tobacco-drying tower, with a large garden, a jet tub, and 1,615 square feet of space, is being sold fully furnished for €195,000 ($228,257). See: Gate-away.com.
Many travel guides and forums tell you not to travel in Italy in summer. I disagree. Summertime is a great time to be here. Everything ramps up, and while it’s hot, like anywhere in summer, the rewards make up for it. Plus, the cool-down options are plentiful.
City Fun
It’s true that many Italians take their holidays in August. But while many businesses and offices close for much of the month, just as many stay open, and the cities tend to have a bit more breathing room with so many people off on vacation.
I love visiting Rome in the summer because despite the heat, there are many concerts and fun events, and museums have longer opening hours. Opera in the ancient Baths of Caracalla, cinema under the stars on Tiber Island, visits to the Colosseum by night, and a dinner cruise on the river are just a few of the offerings in the Eternal City.
Visiting the Colosseum at night is a summertime delight in Rome
In fact, it’s like that in most cities around the country. There are loads of events and concerts, dances, food festivals, street fairs, and traditional Palio (horse racing) events to enjoy. We particularly love the sagras—town festivals where the focus is on the specialty food they serve. You can eat well (and cheaply!) and enjoy a convivial atmosphere that is usually accompanied by music and dancing. You’ll find something special to do nearly every day of the week.
Even the smallest of towns, like Basilicata where my husband Bryan and I live, organizes summer entertainment. Some are down-home types of activities for the residents to get out and socialize, while others are full-on big-deal events that tourists miss out on, because these festas aren’t publicized outside the immediate area.
Beach resort towns go into overdrive and keep things hopping late into the night. There are dance nights on the beach, parties in the piazzas, arts and crafts expos, concerts and more. You won’t get much sleep, but you’ll have a great time!
The Seaside and Other Water Attractions
The time to enjoy the beach is from June through September, but it’s particularly appreciated in July and August, when temperatures rise and the sea water gives blessed relief.
The serviced beaches are so pretty with their ordered rows of umbrellas exuding that sophisticated Riviera ambience, and you can reserve your spot in advance. Of course, August is prime high season, when many Italians and tourists alike vie for space on the sand, and it can get crowded. There are lots of less-known places though, that don’t attract quite the same throngs.
Our way of getting away from the herd is to rent kayaks and paddle to a hidden cove where we can bask in tranquil splendor. You can also rent a small boat for the same purpose. The beauty is that each seaside destination is unique. We can go to the soft sandy expanses on the Ionian Sea for a day and then head over to the coves on the Mediterranean the next if we want, so we never get bored of the coastal options.
Don’t overlook the other water options, though. There are lakes around the country, with the most famous being the northern Alpine lakes (Lake Como, Lake Maggiore, and Lake Garda), but each region has some nice laghi and hidden water holes to enjoy. When we lived in Ascoli Piceno, for example, we liked lounging in cool water on the Castellano River, taking a book and basking in the little eddies of the stream.
Here in Basilicata, there are some beautiful waterfalls that cascade cool mountain water down into ponds. North of Rome, Lake Bracciano and Lake Bolsena, where you can enjoy a stand-up paddle board or the freshwater beaches that dot the shores, are great alternatives to the packed beaches closer to the city.
Culinary Cool-Downs
When the temperatures go up, the food offerings change to help beat the heat. Creamy mozzarella di bufala layered with juicy ripe tomatoes makes a Caprese salad. Other offerings include shavings of prosciutto laced around melon or figs; cold pasta tossed with a bounty of fresh summer veggies; and abundant fish cooked in a myriad of delectable ways. All make me thankful for summer.
Oh, and the drinks. Chilled wine with peaches, vibrant Aperol spritz, slushy fruit granita, and icy Italian beer all hit the spot. Then there’s creamy gelato, which is a heavenly food group unto itself.
Here in Italy, each season has its joys, but my vote goes to summer for its vibe, fun, and activities that really do exude the sense of la dolce vita.
Close your eyes and dream of your perfect Italian hill town. Tidy brick buildings with pretty piazzas and romantic lanes, lounging on its hill amidst a dreamy countryside striped with vines and bathed in that inimitable ethereal light. Picture it?
Welcome to Ripatransone.
This timeless town unfurls along a ridge in the southern section of Le Marche region. It’s a gentile Old World oasis surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. It is the postcard image most people envision of Italian countryside, complete with stone farmhouses scattered in the rippled hills, sunflower fields, and unspoiled villages on the hilltops.
Ripatransone, or just Ripa as most people in the area call it, measures up to any Tuscan town in ambiance, with its mix of medieval and Renaissance styles. But Ripatransone has an added benefit—it’s less than 10 miles from the palm-fringed Adriatic Sea.
I loved it from my first visit; after wandering past palaces and stylish streets, I stumbled into the Pasticceria Centrale and sunk my teeth into their killer cream puffs. Buttery, flaky, and not-too-sweet cream filling, it was like eating a cloud.
At the end of the day, the wine bar down the street clinched it for me. It’s set beneath the portico-faced Palazzo del Podestà with a courtyard garden hidden behind it. I sipped wine there with the vineyards in view. I returned many times to Ripatransone after that, and felt the same adoration each time.
This is the heart of Le Marche’s wine country, where hearty ruby reds win awards and where surprisingly full-bodied whites can even stand up with the area’s pork dishes and addictive meat-stuffed fried olives. There are wineries along every country road. The area’s cooperative is a few miles outside town; it racks up accolades, but still sells vino sfuso from the vats (bring your own jug to fill for $1.50 a liter). In Ripatransone and Le Marche in general, there is a cultured beauty even while carrying on a rural and unpretentious lifestyle. Sunset wine trekking is a thing here.
Around town there are art-adorned churches and museums, an archeology museum, and a jewelry-box-style theater, along with an open-air amphitheater set in the remains of the ancient fortifications where summer concerts brighten the evenings.
They host delectable food festivals all year long, an Oktoberfest party, and a rollicking raucous fireworks-laden “horse of fire” festival to honor their patron saint in blow-out style. A little dangerous, perhaps, with all the sparks flying airborne, but it is an undying tradition here in Ripa since 1682.
If things start to feel a little boring around town, the beach is only 15 minutes away; San Benedetto del Tronto is dubbed “the Rimini of Le Marche” with its summer party scene, but it also boasts some high-end shopping and excellent seafood restaurants along with miles of sandy beaches. The travertine splendor of Ascoli Piceno, the provincial capital, is just a little more than a half-hour away with elegant piazzas and upscale entertainment. The airport at Ancona is in reach in an hour to jet off to other parts of Europe.
Ripatransone Real Estate
Ripatransone’s price-point is as attractive as the views from its lofty ramparts. You can find rentals for €400 ($455). And resales are well-priced. I saw one two-bedroom contemporary restored open-plan home on a quiet cobbled lane. It retains brick arches and original beam ceilings. It even has a garden with views. All for €145,000 ($164,967)
A two-story townhouse with barrel brick ceilings and a garden, just two minutes from the piazza, is on sale for €90,000 ($102,393).
In this area, many of the dreamy farmhouses cost upwards from €350,000, but I spotted an attractive country home on more than seven acres of land with fruit trees and an olive grove for €140,000 ($159,278). It has three bedrooms, two baths, a cellar and attic and is surrounded by vineyards and the patchwork rolling hills.
This unspoiled, picturesque town is the kind of place that can bring your Italian dreams into reach of reality.
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I’m Valerie Schneider, the Italy Correspondent for International Living. I wanted to take a few minutes to talk to you about connectivity, because this is a question I get asked frequently, both at the IL conferences and by email. People want to know what kind of cell phone plans they can expect and what kind of internet we have here in Italy. So let’s talk about cell phones first.
What’s the Cell Reception like in Italy?
There’s a lot more options here in Italy for cell phone plans than we have in the U.S. You can swap out your SIM cards, because the phones are unlocked, so you can change plans whenever you want without being locked into a contract. I’ve changed a couple of times to take advantage of better offers. Right now, for example, I’m paying $13 a month. That includes unlimited calls within Italy, unlimited text messages, data, and 400 international minutes a month for $13. So there’s just a lot more flexibility and a lot more affordability in the type of cell phone plans that you can choose from here, and your number goes with you. So any time I change from, let’s say, Wind to Vodafone, I keep my phone number, and so that’s a really great benefit as well.
In terms of internet, of course, people want to know, “Can we be connected? What kind of internet do you have in Italy?” Well, this is, of course, a First-World European country, and it’s technologically advanced, so there’s really good internet no matter where you go. We live in a very tiny town, Basilicata, in the mountains in southern Italy, and we have high-speed DSL internet, and they just laid fiber optic cables even in our tiny village. So, we have very high-speed internet, and it’s very affordable. We pay $28 a month, and that’s a really good plan. And no matter where you go in the country, there’s either a DSL, there’s fiber, or there’s satellite internet available, and you’re never going to pay more than $56 a month for any type of these internet plans.
For example, right now they’re offering internet for $28. If you combine it with Sky, which is the satellite TV provider, they’ve got a promotion running that is $22 a month, so that’s a really great deal. Or there’s a phone, Sky, and internet plan through Fastweb. It’s $23 a month, and that’s for the first year. Then it goes up. That promotional rate goes to the regular rate, which is only $75 a month. So by contrast, my sister in Ohio said she’s paying $175 for internet and cable TV every month. So there’s some really great options to stay connected and to use the internet and combine it with these sort of bundles to take care of your technological needs.
Can You Get U.S. Television Channels and Cable in Italy?
Of course, we have satellite options. There’s Sky, which is the most common, especially among expats, because it brings in all of those channels they want to see from the U.S., but there are some other options as well through Mediaset or Infinity. And there’s a lot of streaming options as well, so whatever kind of shows you want to watch, you’re going to have those available to you.
Is Netflix and Amazon Prime Available in Italy?
Yes, there’s Netflix and Amazon Prime, here in Italy. There’s a lot of different kinds of satellite options that you can opt into, or you can buy a decoder and access different types of programs, too. So no matter where you go here in Italy, even in a tiny village like ours, you’re going to be well connected, and you’re going to not have any sacrificing of speed or connectivity.
Mention Italy’s Lake District and most people will think of the northern glacial lakes—Lake Maggiore, Lake Garda, and of course Lake Como. Their glitzy reputation as a playground for the rich and famous draws lots of visitors, especially in the summer months. Its gorgeous scenery draws more than 6 million visitors a year, putting it in the top 10 tourist destinations in Italy. But, central Italy also has an unsung lakes district that is easily accessible and well worth exploring. The three lakes may not have the dramatic alpine backdrop of the northern ones, but they do have a placid ambiance and splendor all of their own.
Lake Trasimeno is the fourth largest lake in Italy, sitting in Umbria at the Tuscan border. It’s laced with waterfront towns and castles, surrounded by sunflower fields and farmland. Three islands shimmer alluringly in the water, and ferries will take you to two of them for lunch or exploring. Lake Como may have George Clooney, but Lake Trasimeno has George Lucas, who lives in Passignano. (Okay, that may not be a fair comparison.)
To the south in the Lazio region is Lake Bolsena, an elliptical crater that is the largest volcanic lake in Europe. A trio of towns sits on the shore and most of the waterfront is undeveloped. The medieval town of Bolsena preserves its antique atmosphere above the lake, while Capodimonte is a mini-version of it, perched prettily on a low promontory. Then there’s Lake Bracciano, another volcanic-formed gem to the south of Lake Bolsena, and just an hour from Rome.
While Lake Trasimeno can seem brooding and Lake Bolsena a tad sedate, Lake Bracciano embodies the best lake experience to me, combining beaches, waterfront paths, intriguing towns, and water sports. It also offers year-round livability as well as affordability, with a milder climate than the northern lakes.
Lake Bracciano is just an hour from Rome but is a tranquil world away. Not so tranquil as to be dull, mind you, but placid. The only motors allowed are those of the ferries that connect the three lakeside towns. All other boats, including the fishermen, have to paddle. This ensures not only a peaceful ambiance but a safer environment for kayakers and stand-up paddle boarders who don’t have to contend with jet skis or motor boats.
While Como is hectic and pricy, Lake Bracciano is a lesser known, laidback alternative. The lake is certainly smaller, but ferries ply the water among the three towns. An evening out could be a boat trip to Trevignano Romano for sunset drinks and dinner, or a train ride into Rome for a meal and a show. Frequent rail and bus connections whisk you to Rome in an hour for all the cultural events and offerings of the capital city whenever you might like. By day you could paddle a canoe, enjoy a swim, windsurf, or go fishing. Lakeside promenades are dotted with shady plane trees, perfect for a stroll or bike ride, with some cafes strung about to enjoy a drink with a water view.
The Towns on Lake Bracciano
Three towns grace the shore of Lake Bracciano. On the south side of the lake are Bracciano and Anguillara Sabazia, while on the north side is teensy Trevignano Romano. Bracciano with its imposing 15th century castle sits above the lake and has a bustling feel. The town keeps a pleasant time-worn appeal, and the Odescalchi Castle frequently draws celebrity guests and weddings (Tom Cruise was married here). Because of its position on the hill, views are spectacular, especially from the upper Belvedere della Sentinella. It takes a bit more effort to enjoy the lake, as you have to descend to the waterfront, but there is more than a mile of expansive beach and easy access to water sports here. Rent a pedal boat, sailboat or canoe, or just grab an umbrella and chair and lounge with a book. With plenty of restaurants, cafes, wine bars and shops, it is a pleasant small city with the train station right in town.
Anguillara Sabazia is a stunning sight sitting on its lakeside promontory. The old town streets meander from the quay up the hillside providing a pleasant ascent to the castle ramparts amidst flower-box studded stone streets. From the upper piazza, lake views extend in breathtaking clarity, while to the right the medieval gateway still beckons into the streets of the old town. Beyond, towards Rome, the new town spreads out in suburb style, popular with commuting Romans who live near the Anguillara train station, but come into town for lake fun on the weekends.
Anguillara is big enough to provide all the daily services and amusements you need while retaining a small town feel and appeal with a sense of community. Lakeside restaurants and cafes are perfect for lingering and enjoying the sunshine, but old town eateries attract locals out for a pizza or a traditional trattoria meal at affordable prices. You can still enjoy a pizza and a beer for less than $12 here. Folks still stroll with arms linked, around the old town and along the shore. Life here is about a sane pace and simple pleasures, with a jaunt to the city whenever you want something more.
Outdoors sports are popular, with cyclists circling the lake, and walkers take to the country paths of the protected regional nature park right at the town’s doorstep. The tiny undeveloped Lake Martignano attracts those in the know for a swim, and trails lead off into the green-covered hills.
The Takeaway
Lake Bracciano doesn’t just boast proximity to Rome, though. It’s also less than an hour from the Mediterranean Sea, and is at the gateway to Tuscia, the ancient Etruscan land where timeless places like Sutria, Vetralla, and Viterbo (and many more) offer endless exploration opportunities. So, while the northern lakes are surrounded by alpine peaks, the central lakes are ensconced amidst the rolling hills and classic hill towns we all love about Italy. In short, you’ll have abundant nature, beautiful countryside, ancient archeological sites, the Mediterranean coast, intriguing towns, and city life all in easy reach. It’s a wonder this central lakes district isn’t more popular, but its lack of crowds makes it all the more appealing.
