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Making a Life and a Living in Basilicata

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Valerie Schneider moved to southern Italy to find her ancestral home. © Jenifoto 406/Dreamstime

Making the decision to transplant ourselves to Italy was easy. Making the move itself was painless.

Making ourselves at home was smooth and immediate.  Making a living…well, that’s another beast. I’m not going to lie to you—working in Italy can be difficult. But it’s more than worth it.

We have a feeling of belonging that we’ve not known anywhere else, extraordinarily generous neighbors, and a whole village to greet us with a friendly buongiorno when we go for our morning caffè. From our balcony we enjoy the view of jagged mountain peaks, emerald pastures, and an enormous turquoise sky. There are sheep bells and church bells instead of horns and sirens.

This village is special, not for its art or architectural wonders—though it’s a cute town— but because of the people who live here and the traditions they maintain.

In 2006, my husband Bryan and I decided we wanted a change—a different lifestyle in a different locale. We loved our life in New Mexico, but during our many trips to Italy we started to imagine what itwould be like to live there. I have Italian heritage and always felt drawn to the Old World.

After much debate we realized we didn’t want to put off the “living” part of making a living. So we sold the house and ditched our steady jobs. About six months later we were settled into a relaxed routine in the elegant city of Ascoli Piceno in the Le Marche region of central Italy. From there we explored neighboring regions, made friends and carved out a niche for ourselves. I researched my family history and made a trip to where my grandmother’s parents were from— Basilicata—the region we live in now.

Tucked into the Apennines in southern Italy, Basilicata is almost entirely encircled by its neighboring regions except for two short stretches of coastline. In one incredible day, I walked the streets of my ancestors and then discovered to my amazement that I still have relatives in that town.

Bryan and I were both captivated by the hospitality we found in these time-worn towns clinging to their hilltops, maintaining their traditions through the centuries. We started to look for ways to earn an income. Since we couldn’t break through the bureaucracy for a coveted work permit, we could only do autonomo or freelance work. Bryan collaborated with a local realtor to offer vacation-home management services to foreign home owners in the area. I worked writing web content and maintained a monthly column for Slow Travel. I also organized walking tours and winery visits by special request of readers who contacted me after following our adventures through my column or my blog.

We’ve put our backgrounds to use.”

And it really doesn’t cost that much to live here. Having bought our property outright, we don’t have a mortgage or rent payments, and overall living expenses are low: less than a buck for an excellent espresso, 90 cents for a package of pasta, and a whole brimming bagful of fresh fruits and veggies for less than $5.

Not that I have to go to the fruttivendolo often—friends and neighbors share the bounty from their gardens with us. In return, we’ve helped harvest grapes, hunted asparagus and assisted with English translations when needed.

For family reasons both of us had to leave Italy and spend several months back in the U.S., but before we left we bought a 300-year-old house here in the tiny hill town of Trivigno. We made the purchase offer just 18 hours before we departed—but it made it easier to leave knowing that we’d definitely be back.

When we returned, a new job literally knocked at my door when locals came asking me to tutor their kids in English. The local community center also asked me to organize English classes. I never expected to be a teacher and have no background or training, but I love my students.  They’re bright, eager, and fun, and an added benefit is that I got to know the parents and become a part of the community in the process.

Bryan is also teaching English at a private school in Potenza, the provincial and regional capital, which is only 20 services; and, because I was drawn here by heartstrings and family ties, I also started offering genealogical research assistance to others.

At the same time, neighbors started asking us if we had friends or family interested in buying property here. Since there are no realtors in these small hamlets, we decided to add property listings to the website, too.

Our life in Italy is not glamorous. We’re in a hidden village of 600 souls, but it’s real and we’re thrilled to be here.

Editor’s Note: World-renowned food…varied weather…friendly people and a fascinating culture… There is something very special about Italy. Many people write it off as being too expensive for an overseas destination – but it’s cheaper than you might think.

You're reading Making a Life and a Living in Basilicata by International Living, originally posted on InternationalLiving.com. If you've enjoyed this post, be sure to follow International Living on Twitter, Facebook, and Google+!


Settling in to a New Life in Italy

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Making the decision to transplant ourselves to Italy was easy. Making the move to Italy itself was painless. Making ourselves at home was smooth and immediate.

Making a living…well, that’s another beast. I’m not going to lie to you—working in Italy can be difficult. But it’s more than worth it.

We have a feeling of belonging that we’ve not known anywhere else, extraordinarily generous neighbors, and a whole village to greet us with a friendly buongiorno when we go for our morning caffè. From our balcony we enjoy the view of jagged mountain peaks, emerald pastures, and an enormous turquoise sky. There are sheep bells and church bells instead of horns and sirens.

This village is special, not for its art or architectural wonders—though it’s a cute town—but because of the people who live here and the traditions they maintain.

In 2006, my husband Bryan and I decided we wanted a change—a different lifestyle in a different locale. We loved our life in New Mexico, but during our many trips to Italy we started to imagine what it would be like to live there. I have Italian heritage and always felt drawn to the Old World.

After much debate we realized we didn’t want to put off the “living” part of making a living. So we sold the house and ditched our steady jobs. About six months later we were settled into a relaxed routine in the elegant city of Ascoli Piceno in the Le Marche region of central Italy.

From there we explored neighboring regions, made friends and carved out a niche for ourselves. I researched my family history and made a trip to where my grandmother’s parents were from—Basilicata—the region we live in now.

Tucked into the Apennines in southern Italy, Basilicata is almost entirely encircled by its neighboring regions except for two short stretches of coastline. In one incredible day, I walked the streets of my ancestors and then discovered to my amazement that I still have relatives in that town.

Bryan and I were both captivated by the hospitality we found in these time-worn towns clinging to their hilltops, maintaining their traditions through the centuries.

We started to look for ways to earn an income. Since we couldn’t break through the bureaucracy for a coveted work permit…

Editor’s note: In the current issue of International Living magazine, Valerie reveals the eight ways she and Bryan are now earning an income despite Italian red tape. When you subscribe here  you can get instant online access to Valerie’s article…and ever other subscriber-only article published in the last 10 years.

Recommended Reading:

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Secrets of the Amalfi Coast’s Delicacy

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Limoncello is a regional speciality © Muenz/iStock

The rocky promontory that juts out into the Mediterranean south of Naples is dotted with cliff-clutching towns and rimmed by a nerve-wracking road with jaw-dropping views of impossibly-beautiful pastel villages and sapphire seas.

The terraced hillsides and dazzling sunlight nurture the local lemon variety used in the region’s recipes, but more than 60 per cent are destined to become the dessert liqueur known as Limoncello. The sweetened infusion of lemon peels in alcohol is like lemonade for grown-ups. First made by monks as a medicinal elixir, Limoncello has become a niche industry of its own on the Amalfi Coast. You’ll find fanciful bottles of the brilliant-yellow liqueur in shops, along with homemade versions in most restaurants.

Free samples proffered by shopkeepers.”

In Sorrento, it’s enough to walk along Via San Cesareo, where the free samples proffered by shopkeepers will have you nicely tipsy.

If you want to see the groves and watch the process of turning lemon peels into the sweet, potent potion, head to Il Convento, where monks once made the stuff and today the Pollio family continues the tradition. See here.

If you prefer a culinary event, go to Locanda Costa Diva in Praiano, where you can enjoy an entire lemon-themed meal in a fragrant garden above the sea, each course featuring the fruit in some manner—washed down with limoncello, of course. See here.

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A Gastronomic Tour of Italy’s Four Best Food Towns

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The Romans founded Bassano del Grappa, home to the country’s oldest distillery. © AndrewJ. Shearer/iStock

Forget Florence and pass on Rome…when it comes to food in Italy go straight to the source. The country’s thousand-year-old culinary traditions are best appreciated in the regions, and here, going north to south, are four of the peninsula’s best spots.

Bassano del Grappa (Veneto region)

Founded by the Romans over 2,000 years ago, the riverside town of Bassano del Grappa is a warren of narrow cobbled streets. This is the place to sip the strong, clear, grape-derived brandy called grappa. It’s a sophisticated, fragrant moonshine distilled from the left-over skins, seeds, and pulp of wine grapes. Normal grappa is aged for one year in steel vats, while the more refined riserva variety is aged for three years in oak barrels.

Nip into the Grapperia Nardini for a sampling session. It’s located at the end of the town’s covered wooden bridge. Nardini’s has been in business in this same spot since 1779 and is Italy’s oldest distillery. If you want to see the production process, grappa is made from October through May, so plan your visit for the colder-weather months. But don’t worry; the strong alcohol content of the grappa will help keep you warm.

Parma (Emilia Romagna region)

Proud and prosperous, Parma, with a population of 175,000, has a historic center sprinkled with pretty palaces and piazzas and a captivating cathedral as a central focal point. This is where you’ll find Parmigiano Reggiano, the king of grating cheeses, which is used to top pasta dishes worldwide. It’s still made using just milk, whey, and salt. The wheels of cheese are aged for a minimum of 12 months before being sent to markets around the globe.

The left-over whey from the cheese process is fed to the pigs that are destined to become the prized Prosciutto di Parma, a distinctive ham. A combination of salt, mountain air, and about 10 to 12 months of curing time produces a delicate meat that causes both Italians and foreigners alike to swoon.

The Consorzio di Formaggio organizes free tours of the area’s parmigiano factories. You need to reserve well in advance, but the guided tour can also include a trip to a dairy and one of the aging warehouses. More here.

The Museo del Prosciutto in Langhirano, appropriately located in a former animal-market building, presents the process, from pig to prosciutto, with a tasting room where you can sample the precious pork for just $5. See here.

Modena (Emilia Romagna Region) Elegant and affluent, Modena is a monumental city with an enormous cathedral, a ducal palace, and a big, central square where hip Modenesi gather. It’s the home of Ferrari and Maserati, but things slow down when it comes to cuisine. That’s because the prime product here, true balsamic vinegar, is aged a minimum of 12 years.

Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale is the result of late-harvested grapes—usually Trebbiano—that are pressed and then cooked in copper vats until reduced. The must is put into wood barrels to age until it reduces to the characteristically dense and full-flavored vinegar. The aging process of real balsamico lasts from 12 to 25 years, unlike commercial “balsamic vinegar,” which adds sweetener and coloring to everyday wine vinegar. A bottle of finely-aged balsamic can cost upwards of $200.

For a full-fledged glimpse, go to La Noce, an acetaia and restaurant with five generations of experience. You can roam the vineyards of Lambrusco and Trebbiano, used to make both table wine as well as balsamico, and tour its museum with displays of Old-World implements and household items. And, of course, La Noce will feed you well, too!

Naples (Campania Region)

Gorgeous and gritty, historic and hectic at the same time, Naples sits in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius and rims the glittering gulf on the Mediterranean Sea. Once the throne of the Kingdom of Naples, it’s home to not one but three royal palaces in the area, three distinct castles, and a vibrant street scene.

It is said that pizza was invented here. Real Neapolitan pizza is cooked in wood-fi red ovens, uses local tomatoes, fresh mozzarella di bufala (from water-buffalo milk), and the dough is kneaded and shaped by hand.

For a piece of history with your piece of pie, go to Pizzeria Brandi. It’s the oldest in Naples and the birthplace of the country’s most popular pizza variety, the Margherita, created for Queen Margherita and King Umberto in 1889. The pizza, with its red tomatoes, white mozzarella, and green basil, inspired national pride and won the applause of the queen.

If you prefer to dig your hands into the dough, sign up for a Neapolitan pizza-making workshop with Context Travel, which combines a four-hour culinary and cultural walking tour with a hands-on class in one of the city’s famed pizzerias. That’s not all…visit the Amalfi Coast and learn about limoncello here.

Editor’s Note: Art…history…food…culture…climate…friendly locals—Italy is the full package. It’s also a country where you can get a slice of the good life for a lot less than you’re used to paying. If you’re dreaming of life in your own Italian villa, this is the surprisingly affordable way to make it happen.

You're reading A Gastronomic Tour of Italy’s Four Best Food Towns by International Living, originally posted on InternationalLiving.com. If you've enjoyed this post, be sure to follow International Living on Twitter, Facebook, and Google+!

Italy’s 4 Best Food Towns

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Forget Florence and pass on Rome…when it comes to food in Italy go straight to the source. The country’s thousand-year-old culinary traditions are best appreciated in the regions, and here, going north to south, are four of the peninsula’s best spots.

Bassano del Grappa (Veneto region)
Founded by the Romans over 2,000 years ago, the riverside town of Bassano del Grappa is a warren of narrow cobbled streets. This is the place to sip the strong, clear, grape-derived brandy called grappa. It’s a sophisticated, fragrant moonshine distilled from the left-over skins, seeds, and pulp of wine grapes. Normal grappa is aged for one year in steel vats, while the more refined riserva variety is aged for three years in oak barrels.

Nip into the Grapperia Nardini for a sampling session. It’s located at the end of the town’s covered wooden bridge. Nardini’s has been in business in this same spot since 1779 and is Italy’s oldest distillery. If you want to see the production process, grappa is made from October through May, so plan your visit for the colder-weather months. But don’t worry; the strong alcohol content of the grappa will help keep you warm!

Parma (Emilia Romagna region)
Proud and prosperous, Parma, with a population of 175,000, has a historic center sprinkled with pretty palaces and piazzas and a captivating cathedral as a central focal point. This is where you’ll find Parmigiano Reggiano, the king of grating cheeses, which is used to top pasta dishes worldwide. It’s still made using just milk, whey, and salt. The wheels of cheese are aged for a minimum of 12 months before being sent to markets around the globe.

The left-over whey from the cheese process is fed to the pigs that are destined to become the prized Prosciutto di Parma, a distinctive ham. A combination of salt, mountain air, and about 10 to 12 months of curing time produces a delicate meat that causes both Italians and foreigners alike to swoon.

The Consorzio di Formaggio organizes free tours of the area’s parmigiano factories. You need to reserve well in advance, but the guided tour can also include a trip to a dairy and one of the aging warehouses.

The Museo del Prosciutto in Langhirano, appropriately located in a former animal-market building, presents the process, from pig to prosciutto, with a tasting room where you can sample the precious pork for just $5.

Editor’s note: Italy’s other best food towns are shared in Valerie’s full article in the current issue of International Living, for subscribers only.

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The Wonderful Rhythm of Life in Italy

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The Wonderful Rhythm of Life in Italy

Diana and Michael’s renovation efforts paid off in Italy. ©Julia Russell

When American Diana Strinati Baur and her husband, Michael Baur, started dreaming of living in Italy and owning a bed and breakfast, the postcard-perfect images of la dolce vita and easy-going hospitality filled their heads and fueled their plans.

The end result has brought them greater pleasure and more opportunities than they ever imagined. “Fantasy is important,” says Diana. “Unless there is fantasy there will never be a reality. But there’s a time to let the fantasy go. It’s important to reckon with reality when doing a project like ours.”

Her reality has surpassed her dreams: a pastel-painted farmhouse complex that hosts guests from around the world, and a pottery studio where she creates artistic pieces and writes.

It started with their first vacation to Italy in 1997, when they fell under the spell of the bel paese (beautiful country). They began making annual trips from their home in Germany, where Michael held a high-stress corporate job. “Whenever we would cross the border into Italy, we’d exhale and immediately feel at home,” says Diana. In 2002 Michael was offered a job transfer to Brussels.

Instead, they chose to ditch the corporate routine and try a new venture they could do together. “We redefined our lives and goals, wanting to live more in accordance with nature, and we wanted to be together more. But we still had to make a living! We felt we had the skill set to run an inn. And, having traveled, we knew what we were looking for: an authentic, elegant, and natural ambience in an idyllic setting.”

They discovered Piedmont purely by chance. They were on a hapless house-hunting trip in Liguria that had turned into a cold, wet nightmare. It left them both sick with colds and demoralized.

To distract them from the misery, Michael proposed a spontaneous jaunt to neighboring Piedmont. Diana agreed—solely in the hopes of finding clearer skies on the other side of the mountains. As they descended, the fog dissipated, the rain lessened, and the skies lightened. They found cozy scenery of stone farmhouses with smoke curling from the chimneys amidst rows of vineyards. Smitten by the beauty, they knew they’d found their piece of paradise.

They started looking for the right property for their bed and breakfast, searching for a house with enough existing space to have at least three guest rooms. “In Italy, you can only add about 20% to the existing area of these ancient structures, so we had to keep that in mind,” says Diana. They also wanted to be close to a beautiful, small city, at a good elevation with nice views.

They eventually found their way to the ancient spa town of Acqui Terme, and to the property that would become their home and business. “When we saw the abandoned farmhouse we knew immediately that this was something special. But all the buildings needed to be gutted and completely restored,” says Diana.

In Italy we exhale and feel immediately at home.”

They plunged in and started ripping up, rebuilding, and patching things back together all winter long. They mixed paint, stained walls, whitewashed furniture, planted gardens, repaired weather damage, and cleaned until they collapsed. Guests arrived in the spring, and Michael and Diana served as hosts throughout the tourist season.

This was their routine during an eight-year building cycle. Today, Diana says they’ve completed about 80% of the structural restoration and are happy with the results. They maintain an annual rhythm. “During the season we’re totally dedicated to the B&B—we hand-wash, hang and iron the linens, we make a beautiful breakfast with fresh produce, and we bake bread daily. We garden, clean, give cooking classes, and lead winery tours.”

Off-season they cut and stack firewood, go for long walks with their Labrador, and cook together. Diana spends more time in her pottery studio making stock to sell the next season, and dedicates herself to writing.

“It’s a wonderful rhythm of having tons of social time with guests and then plenty of down time and introspection in the winter,” she says. “We lead a very simple life and have reduced our costs and needs to the basics—except for good food ingredients and wine.”

When the B&B is closed for the winter, they shut down parts of the property to be frugal but also cozy. Electricity is their biggest expense, especially since they use it to power her electric pottery kiln. “We take care to shut off lights and save energy. Besides, these old stone houses glow if they’re heated with wood!”

For Diana, the biggest challenge by far was battling the fears that bubbled up in the first few years. But you have to keep moving forward, she says. Conquering her fears allowed her to relax and enjoy the process. She put the pottery studio in order and started making art objects to decorate the inn and to sell to guests. She also became a writer, with her first novel, True Vines, just published.

They’ve seen the fruit of their labors, creating a home for themselves and a haven for others.

You're reading The Wonderful Rhythm of Life in Italy by International Living, originally posted on InternationalLiving.com. If you've enjoyed this post, be sure to follow International Living on Twitter, Facebook, and Google+!

Your Own Farmhouse in Italy (That Generates an Income)

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When American Diana Strinati Baur and her husband, Michael Baur, started dreaming of living in Italy and owning a bed and breakfast, postcard-perfect images of la dolce vita and easy-going hospitality filled their heads and fueled their plans.

“Fantasy is important,” says Diana. “Unless there is fantasy there will never be a reality. But there’s a time to let the fantasy go. It’s important to reckon with reality when doing a project like ours.”

Her reality has surpassed her dreams: a pastel-painted farmhouse complex that hosts guests from around the world, and a pottery studio where she creates artistic pieces and writes.

It started with their first vacation to Italy in 1997, when they fell under the spell of the bel paese (beautiful country). They began making annual trips from their home in Germany, where Michael held a high-stress corporate job. “Whenever we would cross the border into Italy, we’d exhale and immediately feel at home,” says Diana. In 2002 Michael was offered a job transfer to Brussels. Instead, they chose to ditch the corporate routine and try a new venture they could do together.

“We redefined our lives and goals, wanting to live more in accordance with nature, and we wanted to be together more. But we still had to make a living! We felt we had the skill set to run an inn. And, having traveled, we knew what we were looking for: an authentic, elegant, and natural ambience in an idyllic setting.”

They discovered Piedmont purely by chance. They were on a hapless house-hunting trip in Liguria that had turned into a cold, wet nightmare. It left them both sick with colds and demoralized.

To distract them from the misery, Michael proposed a spontaneous jaunt to neighboring Piedmont. Diana agreed—solely in the hopes of finding clearer skies on the other side of the mountains. As they descended, the fog dissipated, the rain lessened, and the skies lightened. They found cozy scenery of stone farmhouses with smoke curling from the chimneys amidst rows of vineyards. Smitten by the beauty, they knew they’d found their piece of paradise.

They started looking for the right property for their bed and breakfast, searching for a house with enough existing space to have at least three guest rooms.

They eventually found their way to the ancient spa town of Acqui Terme.

They quickly discovered the property that would become their home and business. “When we saw the abandoned farmhouse we knew immediately that this was something special. But all the buildings needed to be gutted and completely restored,” says Diana.

They plunged in and started ripping up, rebuilding, and patching things back together all winter long. They mixed paint, stained walls, whitewashed furniture, planted gardens, repaired weather damage, and cleaned until they collapsed. Guests arrived in the spring, and Michael and Diana served as hosts throughout the tourist season.

This was their routine during an eight-year building cycle.

Today, Diana says they’ve completed about 80% of the structural restoration and are happy with the results. They maintain an annual rhythm. “During the season we’re totally dedicated to the B&B—we hand-wash, hang and iron the linens, we make a beautiful breakfast with fresh produce, and we bake bread daily. We garden, clean, give cooking classes, and lead winery tours.”

Off-season they cut and stack firewood, go for long walks with their Labrador, and cook together.

“It’s a wonderful rhythm of having tons of social time with guests and then plenty of down time and introspection in the winter,” she says. “We lead a very simple life and have reduced our costs and needs to the basics—except for good food ingredients and wine.”

Editor’s Note: Learn more about Italy and other countries in IL’s daily postcard e-letter. Sign up here for these free daily postcards and we’ll send you a FREE report – Italy: Europe’s Most Seductive Country.

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Three Secret Grand Galleries of Rome

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Three Secret Grand Galleries of Rome

The Doria Villa is one of the Eternal City’s overlooked treasures. © SImone Matteo/Giuseppe Manzoni/Dreamstime.com

Rome is packed with art, but while most visitors queue to visit the Borghese Gallery or the Vatican museums, there are spectacular collections you can have all to yourself. The grand palaces of Rome’s noble families were built—and decorated—during the Renaissance.

Some of the city’s best art hangs in the historic halls of these princely dwellings. An urban palace packed with paintings, the Doria Pamphilj is the largest privately owned palazzo in Rome, still owned by descendants of the princely clan.

Set on one of Rome’s primary shopping streets, Via del Corso, it’s just a few steps from the Capitoline museum and the pantheon. Yet most tourists walk by without a glance, unaware that inside are rooms filled with hundreds of works by the likes of Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael, and Bernini.

The $14 ticket price includes an audio guide narrated by Prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj himself. Here are the full details.

A sprawling palazzo that has hosted popes, presidents and princes, the palazzo Colonna has been the family seat of the important Roman noble family for eight centuries. The palace is still the Colonna family residence so the art gallery is only open Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1:15 p.m.

I stood in awe before the works of Guido Reni, Annibale Carracci, Tintoretto, Ghirlandaio and Veronese, with only a handful of other visitors in the building. The Sala Grande will look familiar to movie buffs; it was the scene of Audrey Hepburn’s press conference in Roman Holiday, where she and Gregory peck wistfully parted ways. Admission is $15.50.

Another palace built by an illustrious family, the palazzo Corsini, along with its accompanying artworks, was sold to the state in 1883 and its collection was kept intact. My personal favorite is Gentileschi’s realistic Madonna and Child, but other masters found here include Carracci, Caravaggio and Luca Giordano Rubens.

The Baroque palace with its huge halls is located on the Janiculum Hill, in the Trastevere District. Sometimes called “the Eighth Hill of Rome” you’ll have one of the best views of the domes and towers of the city if you walk uphill a bit. Be sure to pass through the neighboring Botanical Garden, which was the palace’s private park. Admission is $8. You can find out more by going here.

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Explore the True Italian Underworld

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Explore the True Italian Underworld

You could fit Milan Cathedral in the Caves of Frasassi. © Davide Romanini/Dreamstime.com

There’s a lot more to Italy’s underworld than old re-runs of The Godfather. This country is rich in a real underworld: caverns, grottoes and underground cities. Here are three of my favorite places for subterranean history and natural splendor.

Caverns of Frasassi: Le Marche is a splendid, varied region. Its western edge cozies up to Tuscany and Umbria and its eastern coastline dips in the waves of the Adriatic Sea. In between are mountains, rolling hills, and hill towns of honey-hued stone. Le Marche shares much of the same postcard-like scenery of her famous neighbors, with olive groves and vineyards sprawling across the sunny hills. Art cities like Urbino and Ascoli Piceno are less known than Tuscany’s cities but no less interesting. And hidden beneath the beautiful landscapes, due to fault lines and hidden streams that flow from the mountains to the sea, you’ll find natural caves and crevices.

The Caves of Frasassi, west of the port city of Ancona and near the town of Arcevia, are a true geological wonderland. The extensive network of caverns covers eight miles. Only discovered in 1971, they are in excellent condition, without much outside intervention or damage. In fact, to enter Frasassi you’ll need to pass through three sets of vault-like doors that keep the caves at a precise climate to maintain its natural state.

Once inside, your guide leads you through stalagmite- lined passageways and into vast chambers like the Ancona Abyss. It is so enormous that Milan Cathedral could easily fit inside it. You’ll pass other- worldly geological formations like the calcite cascade known as “Niagara Falls,” a crevice called “the Grand Canyon,” and “the Organ Pipes,” a series of stalactite formations that resembles a church organ and makes varying tones when lightly tapped. Guided tours are given in English four times a day during the summer and by reservation the rest of the year. They cost $20. Visit here for more information.

The Emerald Grotto: The sun-drenched Amalfi Coast is famous for its views (and its steep prices). It’s the coastline south of Naples where pastel-painted towns cling to the hillsides and spill down to the Mediterranean’s sapphire waters. At its center is the town of Amalfi, a former maritime republic with a wealthy and glorious past. And just a few miles from town is the underwater chamber known as the Emerald Grotto.

This sea cave emits an eerie emerald glow thanks to sunlight filtering through an underwater opening. Partially-submerged formations like stalactites and stalagmites add to the mysterious air of this unearthly green world.

Access to the Emerald Grotto is by row boat. You can get to the launching point by taking a ferry boat from Amalfi or an elevator that descends from the coast road. Admission is $6.50. A round-trip ferry ride is $13.

There are other sea caves in the area, too. Capri, a rocky isle in the Mediterranean famous for its Blue Grotto, is a 40-minute ferry ride from Amalfi. Farther south, the seaside resort of Palinuro has seven sea caves, five of which are accessible by boat.

Subterranean Naples: Chaotic, charming, beautiful, gritty… Naples is a special city that revels in its history. It started life as a Greek settlement named Neapolis, or “New City.” A couple of millennia of culture, myths, and legends later, and you can literally walk back in time by simply descending a staircase.

The ancient city of Neapolis is still there, with a Greco-Roman theater, a 1st-century BC Roman apartment building, a market, and streets all lying below the modern city. Passageways were adapted from abandoned aqueducts, and enormous cisterns were constructed in the Roman era and served Naples until the 19th century.

Several tour companies lead guided visits to the underground. You can also visit a few of the prominent sights on your own. Start at Naples’ geographic center, at the church of San Lorenzo Maggiore in Piazza San Gaetano. Below the monastery’s cloister are the Greek agora and the marketplace that was part of the Roman Forum. You’ll be able to wander through shopping arcades and cobbled streets, with the remains of shops, baking ovens, and wash basins.

Just around the corner from Via Duomo, in Via dell’Anticaglia, is the entrance to the Greco-Roman theater, where legend has it Nero sang on stage. The narrow street is named for the theater itself, which could hold up to 5,000 spectators.  Underneath the street level are corridors and staircases that led to the seats, while, wedged between apartment blocks, are the excavated remains of the theater.

To the southwest, near the city’s “drawing room”—the Piazza del Plebiscito—is the Bourbon Tunnel. It was an ancient aqueduct that was closed off by King Ferdinand II in 1853 and turned into a secret escape route from the Royal Palace. The entrance is just off Piazza del Plebiscito in an alleyway called Vico del Grottone.

If you want to add even more mystery to the experience, go with experienced guides on a tour by candle light.  Sign up here for a tour with Napoli Sotterranea, which leads visitors underground from Piazza San Gaetano every two hours from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily.

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Rescue a Palazzo for $137,000…and Other Bargains in Italy’s Heel

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Rescue a Palazzo for $137,000…and Other Bargains in Italy’s Heel

The region of Basilicata is full of historic towns where you’ll find many affordable properties.© bibikoff-Istock

When I tell people that I bought a house in Italy, the usual response is, “How fantastic!” When I tell them it’s located in Basilicata, they get a blank look and ask, “Where?”

I don’t blame them. Basilicata is possibly the least-known region in Italy. Located at the ankle of the boot, it cuddles up to Puglia, Calabria, and Campania and is the most sparsely-populated part of the country. Its people proudly (some may say stubbornly) cling to their traditions and their identity. The region’s ancient name is Lucania and the inhabitants of Basilicata refuse to be called “Basilicatans,” opting instead to identify with their roots and call themselves “Lucani.”

From the border with Puglia, the plains turn into wavy swaths of billowing wheat, then to rolling hills punctuated by olive groves and topped with grape vines. World-class wine is made here from ancient Greek grapes.

In the heart of wine country is Venosa, a classy town with Roman roots and a sense of elegance. To the west is Melfi, a pretty town with an impressive history. It was here that Pope Urban II declared the First Crusade in 1089, and where the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II issued his constitution, the first written governmental laws of the Middle Ages. Frederick II’s castle, set squarely on the crest above town, is the defining feature of Melfi.

As you travel south, the land rises and peaks begin to appear —some 7,325 feet high at the region’s loftiest level. We opted to purchase in the central part of the region, near the regional capital of Potenza, a few minutes from my ancestral village. Eagles and falcons are a regular sight from our balcony and brilliant starry skies mark the evenings.

Here time-worn towns rest on their hilltops and carry on a way of life that is quickly fading in other regions. Most people have a plot of land outside town to grow vegetables and grapes, and we’re the happy recipients of nature’s bounty by the basket and bottle-full. Neighbors invite us in for a coffee and a chat and willingly lend a hand when asked. They’ve truly made us feel like part of the community.

I looked at one newly restored apartment going for $13,000.”

Because the area has lost residents in the past half-century, there are lots of properties available, but you have to make an effort to find them. Most towns don’t have real estate agents. We found our little 300-year-old casa in the village of Trivigno thanks to the village’s former mayor. We paid just $32,000 for the habitable house with three separate stone-hewn cantinas, used to store firewood and wine. Neighbors have homes for sale by word of mouth, ranging from $26,000 for fixer-uppers to $137,000 for part of a once-noble palazzo to restore.

Because of the lack of estate agents, we offered to list homes that our neighbors are selling on our tourism website, to help publicize their properties to a wider audience, and as a good will effort to try to attract new residents to town.

The palazzo has two interior courtyards and a centuries-old iron key to open the door. It needs work but could easily be converted into four separate apartments to rent out or resell. It sits at the top of town and has great views. In our neighborhood, a friend’s house is for sale for only $63,000—fully furnished. The attractive, one-bedroom house has a spacious cantina carved into the rock below it for storage or entertaining space.

An hour from Trivigno, to the northwest of Potenza, is the pretty, pastel town of Muro Lucano, which is big enough to have a real-estate agency. Here houses line up along a steep ridge in an orderly jumble, looking more like a sunny coastal town than a hill town. Mount Vulture looms up behind as a dramatic backdrop. Muro Lucano is where Aglianico, the region’s most famous wine, comes from. Muro Lucano’s historic center is a warren of narrow lanes that unfold below the 13th-century castle. There are artisan shops, sidewalk cafés, and a handful of excellent restaurants to enjoy. My favorite eatery, Il Casareccio, is below town, with an open-view, wood-fired grill to perfectly cook local meats. The pastas are made by hand every day.

The lifestyle is leisurely and friendly and homes can be had for a song. I looked at one newly restored apartment going for only $13,000. It’s unfurnished as are most properties in Italy. And it’s small—about 500 square feet. But it feels more spacious because it is set on two levels, with the entry way and kitchen on one level, and the living room and bedroom down a short flight of stairs. It’s the perfect little vacation bolt hole.

A totally-renovated, three-level townhouse with an ample terrace is on offer for only $79,000. Right off the street for easy access and parking, it has two bedrooms and two bathrooms set on different levels for privacy, with two separate entrances and space outdoors for a bistro table.

On the eastern side of Basilicata is the region’s most famous and fascinating city, Matera. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it is thought to be Europe’s oldest continually-inhabited town.

The Sassi section is an astonishing sight—a seemingly senseless humble of houses carved into and built out of tufa stone. But walk out among the houses and you see that there is actually an intricate design at work here. Matera has a buzzing city center, with elegant boutiques, lively sidewalk cafés, and excellent restaurants.

To the south of Matera are craggy, olive-covered hills that give way to the sandy shoreline of the Ionian Sea. The historic town off Tursi basks among the olive groves on a bluff between two rivers, in sight of the sea. Here you’ll find the ancient Saracen quarter known as La Rabatana, dating back to the 9th century, where houses have a sense of history—and low price tags. A two-bedroom apartment with arched brick ceilings and a panoramic balcony needing restoration is going for $34,000, while a habitable home with two bedrooms, a fireplace, a balcony, and a big rooftop terrace is listed for only $57,600. I also saw a nice country house in the hills, with fruit trees, wood beams, and an outdoor pizza oven, just 10 minutes from the Ionian Sea. It costs $103,500, which I thought was an amazing deal for an independent, two-bedroom and two-bathroom house.

If Italian coastal life is what you long for, Basilicata offers that, as well. On the region’s west side, Basilicata claims a small but spectacular piece of Mediterranean coastline, wedged between the regions of Campania and Calabria. The glittery, sun-drenched, seaside resort of Maratea can claim all the beauty of the more famous Amalfi Coast, but without the crowds or the staggering price tags. The old town is cradled on the hillside above the Mediterranean, while the port of Maratea is a waterfront village with a colorful marina, great restaurants, and hidden coves for swimming. Exotic black-sand beaches highlight the turquoise water. The historic center is filled with vivid ceramics, a bustling piazza with outdoor cafés, and a carefree air.

A three-bedroom home in the porto area, with a terrace and a sea view, is listed for $341,000, significantly more affordable than other Mediterranean resort towns. Up in the historic center, restored town homes can be found in old stone buildings tucked among the quaint, narrow streets. I glimpsed a nicely-restored, two-bedroom apartment in an antique building, with a small patio, on a cute cobbled lane, for only $210,000. And you’ll find other apartments to restore that cost even less.

A small villa with a lush garden, covered terrace, and three bedrooms, located around 500 yards from the sea, is for sale for $497,000. A comparable casa on the Amalfi Coast costs double that price.

Maratea attracts mostly Italian and northern European tourists in the summer, but it never becomes over-crowded. You can still snag a table at one of the seafood eateries, or lounge in a secluded cove for a day of sun and surf in relative tranquility, even in August.

Editor’s Note: Whether you choose to live on the Mediterranean coast, in glamorous Tuscany or in an Alpine retreat, Italy offers the kind of la dolce vita that can’t be duplicated anywhere else on the planet. And it’s more affordable than you think. Here’s a “road map” on how to begin your new life in Italy soon.

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Affordable Palazzos in Italy

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When I tell people that I bought a house in Italy, the usual response is, “How fantastic!”

When I tell them it’s located in Basilicata, they get a blank look and ask, “Where?”

I don’t blame them. Basilicata is possibly the least-known region in Italy. Located at the ankle of the boot, it cuddles up to Puglia, Calabria, and Campania and is the most sparsely-populated part of the country.

From the border with Puglia, the plains turn into wavy swaths of billowing wheat, then to rolling hills punctuated by olive groves and topped with grape vines. World-class wine is made here from ancient Greek grapes.

In the heart of wine country is Venosa, a classy town with Roman roots and a sense of elegance. To the west is Melfi, a pretty town with an impressive history.

As you travel south, the land rises and peaks begin to appear—some 7,325 feet high at the region’s loftiest level. We opted to purchase in the central part of the region, near the regional capital of Potenza, a few minutes from my ancestral village. Eagles and falcons are a regular sight from our balcony and brilliant starry skies mark the evenings.

Here time-worn towns rest on their hilltops and carry on a way of life that is quickly fading in other regions. Most people have a plot of land outside town to grow vegetables and grapes, and we’re the happy recipients of nature’s bounty by the basket- and bottle-full. Neighbors invite us in for a coffee and a chat and willingly lend a hand when asked. They’ve truly made us feel like part of the community.

Because the area has lost residents in the past half-century, there are lots of properties available…but you have to make an effort to find them. Most towns don’t have real estate agents. We found our little 300-year-old casa in the village of Trivigno thanks to the village’s former mayor. We paid just $32,000 for the habitable house with three separate stone-hewn cantinas, used to store firewood and wine. Neighbors have homes for sale by word of mouth, ranging from $26,000 for fixer-uppers to $137,000 for part of a once-noble palazzo to restore.

The palazzo has two interior courtyards and a centuries-old iron key to open the door. It needs work but could easily be converted into four separate apartments to rent out or resell. It sits at the top of town and has great views. In our neighborhood, a friend’s house is for sale for only $63,000—fully furnished. The attractive, one-bedroom house has a spacious cantina carved into the rock below it for storage or entertaining space.

An hour from Trivigno, to the northwest of Potenza, is a pretty, pastel town. Here houses line up along a steep ridge in an orderly jumble, looking more like a sunny coastal town than a hill town. A mountain looms up behind it as a dramatic backdrop. The town’s historic center is a warren of narrow lanes that unfold below the 13th-century castle. There are artisan shops, sidewalk cafes, and a handful of excellent restaurants to enjoy.

The lifestyle is leisurely and friendly and homes can be had for a song. I looked at one newly restored apartment going for only $13,000. It’s unfurnished as are most properties in Italy. And it’s small—about 500 square feet. But it feels more spacious because it is set on two levels, with the entryway and kitchen on one level, and the living room and bedroom down a short flight of stairs. It’s the perfect little vacation bolt hole.

A totally-renovated, three-level townhouse with an ample terrace is on offer for only $79,000. Right off the street for easy access and parking, it has two bedrooms and two bathrooms set on different levels for privacy, with two separate entrances and space outdoors for a bistro table.

Editor’s Note: Learn more about Italy and other countries in IL’s daily postcard e-letter. Sign up here for these free daily postcards and we’ll send you a FREE report – Italy: Europe’s Most Seductive Country.

Recommended Reading:

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Property Bargains in Italy’s Basilicata Region

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When I tell people that I bought a house in Italy, the usual response is, “How fantastic!” When I tell them it’s located in Basilicata, they get a blank look and ask, “Where?”

I don’t blame them. Basilicata is possibly the least-known region in Italy. Located at the ankle of the boot, it cuddles up to Puglia, Calabria, and Campania and is the most sparsely-populated part of the country. Its people proudly (some may say stubbornly) cling to their traditions and their identity. The region’s ancient name is Lucania and the inhabitants of Basilicata refuse to be called “Basilicatans,” opting instead to identify with their roots and call themselves “Lucani.”

From the border with Puglia, the plains turn into wavy swaths of billowing wheat, then to rolling hills punctuated by olive groves and topped with grape vines. World-class wine is made here from ancient Greek grapes.

In the heart of wine country is Venosa, a classy town with Roman roots and a sense of elegance. To the west is Melfi, a pretty town with an impressive history. It was here that Pope Urban II declared the First Crusade in 1089, and where the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II issued his constitution, the first written governmental laws of the Middle Ages. Frederick II’s castle, set squarely on the crest above town, is the defining feature of Melfi.

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As you travel south, the land rises and peaks begin to appear—some 7,325 feet high at the region’s loftiest level. We opted to purchase in the central part of the region, near the regional capital of Potenza, a few minutes from my ancestral village. Eagles and falcons are a regular sight from our balcony and brilliant starry skies mark the evenings.

Here time-worn towns rest on their hilltops and carry on a way of life that is quickly fading in other regions. Most people have a plot of land outside town to grow vegetables and grapes, and we’re the happy recipients of nature’s bounty by the basket and bottle-full. Neighbors invite us in for a coffee and a chat and willingly lend a hand when asked. They’ve truly made us feel like part of the community.

Because the area has lost residents in the past half-century, there are lots of properties available, but you have to make an effort to find them. Most towns don’t have real estate agents. We found our little 300-year-old casa in the village of Trivigno thanks to the village’s former mayor. We paid just $32,000 for the habitable house with three separate stone-hewn cantinas, used to store firewood and wine. Neighbors have homes for sale by word of mouth, ranging from $26,000 for fixer-uppers to $137,000 for part of a once-noble palazzo to restore.

Because of the lack of estate agents, we offered to list homes that our neighbors are selling on our tourism website, to help publicize their properties to a wider audience, and as a good will effort to try to attract new residents to town.

The palazzo has two interior courtyards and a centuries-old iron key to open the door. It needs work but could easily be converted into four separate apartments to rent out or resell. It sits at the top of town and has great views. In our neighborhood, a friend’s house is for sale for only $63,000—fully furnished. The attractive, one-bedroom house has a spacious cantina carved into the rock below it for storage or entertaining space.

An hour from Trivigno, to the northwest of Potenza, is the pretty, pastel town of Muro Lucano, which is big enough to have a real-estate agency. Here houses line up along a steep ridge in an orderly jumble, looking more like a sunny coastal town than a hill town. Mount Vulture looms up behind as a dramatic backdrop.

Muro Lucano is where Aglianico, the region’s most famous wine, comes from. Muro Lucano’s historic center is a warren of narrow lanes that unfold below the 13th-century castle. There are artisan shops, sidewalk cafés, and a handful of excellent restaurants to enjoy. My favorite eatery, Il Casareccio, is below town, with an open-view, wood-fired grill to perfectly cook local meats. The pastas are made by hand every day.

The lifestyle is leisurely and friendly and homes can be had for a song. I looked at one newly restored apartment going for only $13,000. It’s unfurnished as are most properties in Italy. And it’s small—about 500 square feet. But it feels more spacious because it is set on two levels, with the entry way and kitchen on one level, and the living room and bedroom down a short flight of stairs. It’s the perfect little vacation bolt hole.

A totally-renovated, three-level townhouse with an ample terrace is on offer for only $79,000. Right off the street for easy access and parking, it has two bedrooms and two bathrooms set on different levels for privacy, with two separate entrances and space outdoors for a bistro table.

On the eastern side of Basilicata is the region’s most famous and fascinating city, Matera. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it is thought to be Europe’s oldest continually-inhabited town.

The Sassi section is an astonishing sight—a seemingly senseless humble of houses carved into and built out of tufa stone. But walk out among the houses and you see that there is actually an intricate design at work here. Matera has a buzzing city center, with elegant boutiques, lively sidewalk cafés, and excellent restaurants.

To the south of Matera are craggy, olive-covered hills that give way to the sandy shoreline of the Ionian Sea. The historic town off Tursi basks among the olive groves on a bluff between two rivers, in sight of the sea. Here you’ll find the ancient Saracen quarter known as La Rabatana, dating back to the 9th century, where houses have a sense of history—and low price tags.

A two-bedroom apartment with arched brick ceilings and a panoramic balcony needing restoration is going for $34,000, while a habitable home with two bedrooms, a fireplace, a balcony, and a big rooftop terrace is listed for only $57,600. I also saw a nice country house in the hills, with fruit trees, wood beams, and an outdoor pizza oven, just 10 minutes from the Ionian Sea. It costs $103,500, which I thought was an amazing deal for an independent, two-bedroom and two-bathroom house.

If Italian coastal life is what you long for, Basilicata offers that, as well. On the region’s west side, Basilicata claims a small but spectacular piece of Mediterranean coastline, wedged between the regions of Campania and Calabria. The glittery, sun-drenched, seaside resort of Maratea can claim all the beauty of the more famous Amalfi Coast, but without the crowds or the staggering price tags. The old town is cradled on the hillside above the Mediterranean, while the port of Maratea is a waterfront village with a colorful marina, great restaurants, and hidden coves for swimming. Exotic black-sand beaches highlight the turquoise water. The historic center is filled with vivid ceramics, a bustling piazza with outdoor cafés, and a carefree air.

A three-bedroom home in the porto area, with a terrace and a sea view, is listed for $341,000, significantly more affordable than other Mediterranean resort towns. Up in the historic center, restored town homes can be found in old stone buildings tucked among the quaint, narrow streets. I glimpsed a nicely-restored, two-bedroom apartment in an antique building, with a small patio, on a cute cobbled lane, for only $210,000. And you’ll find other apartments to restore that cost even less.

A small villa with a lush garden, covered terrace, and three bedrooms, located around 500 yards from the sea, is for sale for $497,000. A comparable casa on the Amalfi Coast costs double that price.

Maratea attracts mostly Italian and northern European tourists in the summer, but it never becomes over-crowded. You can still snag a table at one of the seafood eateries, or lounge in a secluded cove for a day of sun and surf in relative tranquility, even in August.

Tips and Advice on Buying Real Estate in Italy

• You’ll need a codice fiscale (tax number) to open a bank account, buy property, activate utilities, and pay taxes. It’s an easy formality to obtain.

• If you don’t speak Italian, get a translator to help you with the offer and purchase agreement to make sure you understand the terms and details of the deal.

• Even if you don’t use a real estate agent, get a written agreement on the price and terms of sale. When buying from the owner, you may or may not have to pay a deposit when you agree on the price. (Our purchase was a very informal oral contract with the owner and we didn’t pay anything until the closing.)

• Find a good tecnico. Hire a local geometra (surveyor) or civil engineer; he will become your best friend in the purchase process. He will check the land registry records to make sure the title and deed are in order and will inspect the property for compliance to building codes. If you plan on renovating a property or changing land use (for example, from rural structure to habitation), he’ll obtain the permits and advise you.

• Obtain residence to lower your tax bracket. Once you purchase, go through the bureaucratic registration with the town to obtain residence status. Residents pay 4% tax on property while non-residents pay 10%.

• Don’t use the seller’s notaio (notary). You pay the legal fees for the notaio, who conducts the closing and legally registers the property purchase. So choose one for yourself to make sure there are no familial ties or other conflicts of interest in the seller’s favor.

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Italy v France: Round Two

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France is nice, I guess. Lavender fields and a vast wine country surely hold a certain appeal. But it’s Italy that captures the heart and feels like home. My cousin bought a house in a lovely little village in southern France, but when she comes to Basilicata, Italy she feels a pang of regret. How could she not, with so much home-spun seduction enveloping anyone who sets foot in the region?

Basilicata is a hidden gem tucked into the ankle of “the boot,” speckled with verdant valleys, deep forests, rolling hills, and alpine peaks. Yes, I know; the Dordogne can boast some similar natural splendors, too. And I’ll give you the beauty of castles and chateaux that litter the landscape there. Our peasant roots can’t really compete with that, though we do have a few impressive castles of our own; in fact, two of them were designed and built by Frederick II himself.

But, no. There’s no real parallel for Basilicata and the Dordogne—or even any other region of Italy for that matter. It’s like trying to compare mele and arancie. They’re two different frutte. But speaking of fruit, Basilicata has apples and oranges aplenty, as well as vibrant orchards of lemons, peaches, figs and apricots, along with miles of strawberries, melons, and tomatoes. Just as good (if not better) is the fact that we can take a walk in the nearby woods and find porcini mushrooms, black truffles and wild asparagus, free for the taking. Pretty nice basic ingredients for a delectable meal, I’d say.

Even my cousin admits that Basilicata’s cuisine is far more appealing than the duck liver and crepes that mark her region’s so-called culinary heights. As a vegetarian, she’s thrilled when she comes and partakes of the bounty that is produced here—plump eggplant, hearty legumes, and hand-formed pastas like cavatelli make her taste buds very happy. For the meat eaters, we have fresh lamb raised right down the road, along with mouth-watering pecorino cheese—both fresh and aged, made from the sheep’s milk.

There is also a long tradition of cured meats like capocollo, soppressata, and guanciale to be enjoyed. Our bread is what those slender French baguettes would like to grow up to be. Forget any notion you might have from that tasteless Tuscan “bread”—ours is a big round loaf with a crunchy crust and a wholesome soft interior baked in wood-fired ovens. Delicieux! Then there’s the wine. I’m not about to diss the famous wines of France. Au contraire! I’m just saying that our Aglianico is superb. It has to be, what with a few millennia of perfection on its side, having been brought here by the Greeks.

But the pleasures of Basilicata aren’t all gastronomic. There is a history of hospitality here that will make you happy you came. In fact, they have a saying that “l’ospitalita’ e’ sacra” – hospitality is sacred. The Lucani, as the people here are called, exude genuine warm welcomes and a pride of place that is contagious.

It’s the kind of place where people leave their car doors unlocked and keys dangling from their front doors. There is no haughtiness or pretentiousness here; just normal, neighborly folks.

If the sunny piazzas, lack of polluting industry, cute hill towns and charming traditions and festivals aren’t enough to lure you, perhaps the low cost of living will. I dare you to find even a bouge in the Dordogne that costs just €10,000 (about $13,000)—a real, habitable apartment in a lovely, inhabited town, not an abandoned village. There are plenty of properties for sale that cost less than $80,000 all around the region. You can even find affordable seaside living in the glittery resort town of Maratea; with its rugged cliffs tumbling down to the Mediterranean, it has all the beauty of the Amalfi Coast without the high prices or crushing crowds.

Yes, my cousin loves her house in France, but her visits to Basilicata leave her a little wistful. And that’s about all the testimony you should need to convince you that it’s a bellissima region, even when compared to the south of France. Come to Basilicata, where the prices are low and the lifestyle is dolce.

Editor’s Note: Learn more about Italy and other countries in IL’s daily postcard e-letter. Sign up for these free daily postcards here and we’ll send you a FREE REPORT - Italy: Europe’s Most Seductive Country.

Related Articles:

Property Bargains in Italy’s Basilicata Region

Enjoying a New Life in Italy

Settling in to a New Life in Italy

 

 

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The Secrets to Finding a Rental for a Trial Run in Europe

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Find an affordable and flexible rental in the hill towns of Italy.©grafart/Isotck

Find an affordable and flexible rental in the hill towns of Italy.©grafart/Isotck

You’ve made plans, set tentative dates…you’re almost ready to take off on your three- or six-month European tour…the next step is a roof over your head.

But the short-term rentals offered online can be sickeningly expensive. Fully furnished and ready to go they may be, but with prices often multiples of those you’ll find on the ground, there are better ways to look.

Plus, Internet offerings are not always in places you want to go. They reflect the popularity of certain spots with European vacationers, and you’re looking to live like a local and try out daily life…

Italy is among the lowest cost, and most desirable destinations in Europe. It scores well in International Living’s Annual Global Retirement Index, and if you want to try the Old World, it’s among the best places to start. My husband, Bryan, and I learned a lot about how to find short-term rentals when we first arrived in 2006, and they are tips you can take continent-wide…if not globally…

We found our first apartment in the town of Ascoli Piceno in the La Marche region by walking the streets and looking for rental signs on doors.

Sure, we had searched online and had visited a local rental agency, but we came up empty with both. The Internet listings were all out of our price range, and the rental agency wanted a minimum two year contract and an unbelievable amount of deposit money upfront. So we took to the streets, wandering the cobbled lanes of the centro storico and calling the phone numbers listed on the “Affittasi” signs affixed to doors.

We found a furnished apartment just a few minutes from the main piazzas in a 300-year-old building on a quiet lane. No lease, no fuss, and total flexibility for just $600. Plus, they were the best landlords we ever had. They invited us to partake of barbecues in their rustic taverna, to accompany them to their country property to pick fruit from their orchard, and helped us with the necessary permesso di soggiorno paperwork. We were lucky to find them. And we learned an important lesson: In Italy, it is often about tenacity, or who you know. Or both.

This is a valuable tidbit to start with if you want to find a short-term home in Italy without forking out an arm and a leg or getting tied into a lease that restricts you.

In the small towns you will find homes at lower prices.”

Sure, you might be new to the country, but you have surely interacted with a barista or two. If not, start right away. They are fonts of information and know all the happenings in the neighborhood. Ask friends, B&B owners, or anyone else you may know. Word of mouth is one of the most common ways of finding a rental.

And look in off-season destinations. Consider staying in a seaside town in autumn; there are lots of properties that are in demand in the summer and then go unrented the rest of the year. Prices are down, and availability is high. Look for cities that have a year-round local life to enjoy, though: for example, Gaeta or Nettuno in Lazio, Lerici in Liguria, Civitanova Marche (Le Marche), and Sorrento or Agropoli in Campania. Even the Amalfi Coast has good possibilities at negotiable prices for a few months’ rental in the off season. Conversely, Rome, Florence, or Bologna will have more space available in the summer months when the universities’ academic year is finished and the hordes of exchange students have gone home.

For example, the stunning Villa Azzurra in the heart of Sorrento is practically paradise. There are a couple of one- and two-bedrooms apartments in an elegant building just steps from shops and restaurants, but the building is perched on a cliff above the sea for stunning views to enjoy all day long. Prices are around $1,300 a month.

If you prefer a private villa in the hills, Villa Gioconda, outside the port town of Agropoli, sits above the beautiful Bay of Trentova. The spacious four-bedroom home has a delightful kitchen and a rustic-style taverna downstairs, complete with wood- burning pizza oven. Prices are around $2,000 a month.

Both homes are offered through the agency, Summer in Italy, and are available for longer rentals from November through April. (See: Summerinitaly.com; and make sure to try for a lower price.)

If Umbria is more your style, the historic apartment Via Portica 2, brokered by UrbisAssisi, in a lovely lane in Assisi, might be perfect. It has two bedrooms, a modern kitchen, and a balcony just a few paces from the central and lively Piazza del Comune. Rome has history as well as culture, and the agency Rome Sweet Home offers furnished apartments in different sizes all over town, with special rates for monthly rentals from $1,800. Just imagine popping down to Campo dei Fiori for a bit of vegetable shopping and a morning cappuccino, or watching the sunset over the dome of St. Peter’s from your balcony.

Another bit of advice, go to the smaller towns. While Perugia is popular, you will find homes at lower prices with more flexible terms in towns like Assisi, Spello, or Spoleto. The same is true in most regions— the towns outside the provincial capitals or tourist centers cost less but offer good quality of living. You may find it easier to integrate and feel part of the community in a town rather than a city, as well.

And finally, if you can’t be in Italy to find a place in person, check online. Ask on expats forums, check listings sites like VRBO, Wimdu, or Airbnb, but don’t discount Italian sites like GoHome.it when searching. Check into housesitting sites, as well. Interact with the owners directly and negotiate a price for a long-term stay, ask for more photos, and clarify what is included in the rental price.

Editor’s Note: Whether you choose to live on the Mediterranean coast, in glamorous Tuscany or in an Alpine retreat, Italy offers the kind of la dolce vita that can’t be duplicated anywhere else on the planet. And it’s more affordable than you think. Here’s a “road map” on how to begin your new life in Italy soon.

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Roving Retirement, Italian Style

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Bill and Carol Sansone are the envy of their friends. Acting on their passion for Italy they have gone back year after year to explore regions up and down the peninsula. Since 2005 they’ve taken six different destinations for a “test drive” in search of a future retirement home.

“We’ve rented in Tuscany, Umbria, northern Lazio, Lake Como and Torino, settling into life in each locale, opting to walk or take public transit rather than drive, preparing meals from local produce, and participating in the local life. Wherever we are, Italians always stop and talk—in the shops, at the bar, even in the middle of traffic! Our most memorable experiences revolve around the people we meet along the way,” says Bill.

The couple’s first experience with the Old Country was in 1974 when Bill was in the military and assigned to the NATO Headquarters in Naples. “During those first two years in Italy we didn’t really do much research on where to go. We had a car and a map and not much money, so we picked names of towns on the map and drove until our wallets and gas tank were almost empty,” says Bill.

After this assignment ended, they returned to the States and their respective career paths, Bill as an architect and project manager and Carol as a pastry chef. But the couple read voraciously about Italy—everything from travel memoirs to historical novels, as well as cookbooks and travel guides, and books by Italian-Americans seeking their roots and heritage. Both grandchildren of Italian immigrants they were keen to research their roots and Italy.

The Sansones returned to Italy with their young son in 1998, and started spending summers in Carol’s grandmother’s home in Calabria, exploring the southern regions, and watching as their son played with Italian kids and broke the ice with stoic elderly folks in the village.

In 2010 with early retirement finally a possibility they decided to settle into Soriano nel Cimino for seven months to try out life in Italy for a longer period of time. So far it’s the only destination they’ve returned to twice. “We found it charming, picturesque, and small enough to become familiar. It’s also close to Viterbo and Rome and within reasonable distance to every corner of Italy,” said Carol.

“We try to blend into local life as much as possible, enjoying our morning coffee and pastry at the bar, shopping in the markets and preparing meals from fresh seasonal produce. We like to be out and about when everyone else is, shopping and chatting and strolling. Aperitivo hour in the piazza is pretty important, too,” she says.

From here they gradually developed a mode of roving retirement, the culmination of their life-long love of Italian culture.

And they also found a means to help fund their travels. While in Soriano they did some work for a cultural tour company. “We taught regional cooking courses, led groups on photography outings and other cultural activities, and managed guest apartments,” Bill says. This led to other opportunities and most recently they spent three months in Torino, launching a trip-consulting Facebook page advising independent travelers to Piedmont, Liguria and Lombardy.

They also find costs low. For instance, they usually find their rentals by word of mouth through friends or acquaintances. They say they’ve never paid more than $676 a month, including the utilities.

“Renting gives us the flexibility to explore various places, though our goal is to find a perennial post. There are about a dozen or so items on our wish list… We’d prefer a small furnished apartment with a terrace or balcony that we could rent every year from May through October. We want the piazza and shops, a coffee bar and weekly market to be in walking distance. We want to be locals rather than tourists,” Bill says.

“We try to keep all of our expenses to about $2,000 per month, including rent,” Carol said, but pointed out that they don’t skimp on the experiences. So far the best of their travels link them to their heritage: entering a home and smelling the aromas of their grandmothers’ kitchens from 50 years ago, and baking bread with Carol’s cousins in Calabria.

The couple plan to continue their roving retirement, renting in different towns while deciding on their permanent spot.

Editor’s Note: Learn more about Italy and other countries in IL’s daily postcard e-letter. Sign up for these free daily postcards here and we’ll send you a FREE REPORT - Italy: Europe’s Most Seductive Country.

Related Content:

Living Among the Olive Groves in Southern Italy

Live the Dolce Vita for Less in “Secret” Italy

Italy’s 4 Best Food Towns

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Good Times in Italy: Bulls, Jousting and Living Chess

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Enjoy a medieval tournament in Ascoli Piceno, set amid the hills of Le Marche’s wine country.

Enjoy a medieval tournament in Ascoli Piceno, set amid the hills of Le Marche’s wine country. ©Claudio Giovanni Colombo/Dreamstine

Italians have been throwing good parties since before the Romans perfected the opulent banquet. Every village, town, and city district finds its own reason to celebrate, and with a few millennia of culture, history, and legends to draw on, there are plenty of nation-wide events, too. To help you decide which ones you should really experience, we’ve put together a list of the five most unusual ones from around the country.

Flowers in the Streets in Lazio

In the rolling hills south of Rome, near the papal playground of Castel Gandolfo, the tidy town of Genzano sits on the shore of Lake Nemi. Locals here have carpeted their streets in a floral mosaic every year since 1778.

The rite started with floral bouquets placed in front of doorways to honor the passing procession for the feast of Corpus Domini. But it has become an annual art event, with intricate petal tapestries carpeting the main street, Via Italo Belardi.

This yearly kaleidoscope of color takes place on the ninth Sunday after Easter. The creations start with the harvesting of flowers a few days before the festivities. The artistic, religious, and decorative designs are first sketched out on the street in chalk, then outlined with soil or wood chips. Individual petals and leaves are used as a painter’s palate, filling in the designs to create incredible, colorful mosaics that resemble stained glass all along the street.

Then a religious procession parades over them and, following a Mass in the church, the children are free to run down the steps of the cathedral and dash through the designs, scattering the petals to the wind.

I recommend Hotel Castel Vecchio as a place to stay. It’s a pastel palace next to Lake Albano in the splendid papal city of Castel Gandolfo, just a few miles from Genzano di Roma. See here for more information.

Medieval Jousting in Le Marche

Head back to the Middle Ages as the splendid city of Ascoli Piceno transforms itself back into the bustling medieval city it once was for La Quintana. It’s a high-energy jousting match that rivals the excitement of Siena’s more famous Palio.

Near the Adriatic coast, about an hour south of Ancona, Ascoli Piceno has been celebrating this festival every August since the 1300s. Locals in resplendent costumes fill the stunning historic center with colorful banners. Events include flag-throwing competitions, accompanied by drums and trumpets.

A massive parade known as the corteo storico precedes the joust, a costumed affair with more than 1,000 participants traversing the travertine-paved piazzas and streets in a grand procession. Armored knights and women in glorious gowns lead the way to the arena for the main event, the Giostra della Quintana. This jousting match pits Ascoli’s six sestieri (districts) against each other, with inhabitants rooting loudly for their neighborhood’s horse and cavalier to win the cherished, hand-painted Palio (a special drape).

Armored knights and women in glorious gowns lead the way to the arena.”

The jockey must maneuver his horse on the tight turns of a figure 8-shaped race course, while grasping a long, heavy wooden lance that he uses to pound the target, called “The Moor.”

The Albergo Piceno is a boutique hotel in the heart of the historic center, just a few steps from Piazza Arringo. For more information, see here.

The Running of the Fake Bull

Just 15 miles from Ascoli Piceno, in the olive- and vine-draped hills of Le Marche’s wine country, is the picturesque town of Offida. Built of golden-hued bricks, it has a tidy historic center and a dramatic church perched on a rock at the edge of town. Offida also throws an interesting festa—the Bove Finto, or fake bull.

The normally quiet town turns its triangular piazza into a rollicking scene of spirited chaos every year for Carnevale. Held on the Friday before Fat Tuesday, the festival re-enacts a centuries’-old tradition of killing a bull and distributing the meat to the poor so they would have a rich meal before Lent.

Hoards of people dressed in white shirts with red trim run wildly through the streets. The shrill of whistles accompanies their pursuit of a wildly-bucking “bull” built of wood that is carried on the shoulders of the town’s strongest men. The bull turns, retreats, charges, and bucks at the crowd, which shouts and chases after it while swigging the local red vino from plastic bottles. The spills on their white shirts look like battle wounds.

The contest of man versus animal ends when the bull is captured and symbolically killed, with the horns lifted up to touch a column on the loggia-decked town hall. The party then goes on all night. The country inn Relais del Colle is a lavishly-restored stone farmhouse in the cultivated hills outside the nearby hill town of Ripatransone. See here for further details.

Ripping Apart the Cart in Basilicata

July 2 is dubbed “the longest day” in the stone city of Matera. Located in the southern region of Basilicata, Matera is about an hour-and-a-half west of Bari and is near the Ionian Sea. The city is a UNESCO World Heritage site thanks to the Sassi, a district of stone-carved dwellings that are considered the oldest continually inhabited homes in Europe.

The biggest party of the year is held in honor of the Madonna della Bruna (the dark Madonna), Matera’s patroness. A cherished statue and a painting of her are housed in the Romanesque cathedral. The procession and religious observances were instituted in 1389 by Pope Urban VI.

The day begins at sunrise, with a procession of shepherds who carry the painting through town with great solemnity. At noon things get more interesting when the carved statue of the Madonna della Bruna is placed on a cart that has been decked out in decorative papier maché figures and adorned with fresh flowers.

The cart is led by a donkey and accompanied by knights on horseback and by clerical dignitaries. After the procession, the statue is seen safely back to the church… And then the sacred turns profane: The chariot is ripped to bits by previously-pious spectators, who now vie for a piece of sacred paper from the carriage as a relic to bring them a year of luck. In a matter of minutes the cart is absolutely obliterated. The tradition is said to have begun in the 1500s, when Count Tramontano, Lord of Matera, promised to provide everything needed to properly pay homage to the Madonna, including a new cart every year. To keep him to his word, the Materani destroyed the old one. Street parties, music, and fireworks round out the festivities.

Residence San Giorgio is a suite hotel in the heart of the Sassi with spacious and comfortable lodgings carved out of the stone. To find out more, see here.

The Living Chess Game in Veneto

At the base of the Venetian foothills, Marostica is a well-preserved medieval city with heavy stone walls that climb up the hillside. It’s still guarded by two castles, one of which anchors the long, elegant piazza that is outlined by palaces and trimmed with arcades and sidewalk cafés. Marostica is just a few miles from Bassano del Grappa, near the Dolomites.

The marble-paved Piazza del Castello is also known as the Piazza degli Scacchi (Chess Piazza). That’s because, during the second week of September in even-numbered years, it becomes an enormous chess board where the game’s figures are human. The living chess match was inspired by a play, set in Marostica in 1454, that was written by 20th-century dramatist Mirko Vucetich. In the play, a pair of suitors battle for the hand of a local lord’s daughter. To settle the feud without a deadly duel, the Lord of Marostica proposes a game of chess as a more humane way to win his daughter. His generosity goes even further, as he says the “loser” will marry his younger daughter, keeping both young men alive and making them part of the family. To make the game more entertaining, it is to take place during the city’s annual festival and is to use live, armed knights as the chess pieces. It is accompanied by music, dancing, and fireworks, as befits an engagement party.

Today’s re-enactment involves teams costumed in black and white, with proper swords and crowns, to designate the chess figures. The town’s imposing stone castle serves as a dramatic backdrop. Trumpets sound out the moves, and fans carry white or black flags to cheer on their team. Concerts, medieval flag-throwing competitions, and spirited fun are part of the party.

The boutique Albergo Due Mori is the only hotel inside the city walls, with some rooms overlooking the castle. See here for more details.

Editor’s Note: Whether you choose to live on the Mediterranean coast, in glamorous Tuscany or in an Alpine retreat, Italy offers the kind of la dolce vita that can’t be duplicated anywhere else on the planet. And it’s more affordable than you think. Here’s a “road map” on how to begin your new life in Italy soon.

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Party Like an Italian with These Unusual Events

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Italians have been throwing good parties since before the Romans perfected the opulent banquet. Every village, town, and city district finds its own reason to celebrate, and with a few millennia of culture, history, and legends to draw on, there are plenty of nation-wide events, too. To help you decide which ones you should really experience, for the current issue of International Living magazine, I’ve put together a list of the five most unusual ones from around the country. You can get a sneak peek of two below…

Medieval Jousting in Le Marche

Head back to the Middle Ages as the splendid city of Ascoli Piceno transforms itself back into the bustling medieval city it once was for La Quintana. It’s a high-energy jousting match that rivals the excitement of Siena’s more famous Palio.

Near the Adriatic coast, about an hour south of Ancona, Ascoli Piceno has been celebrating this festival every August since the 1300s. Locals in resplendent costumes fill the stunning historic center with colorful banners. Events include flag-throwing competitions, accompanied by drums and trumpets.

Armored knights and women in glorious gowns lead the way to the arena for the main event, the Giostra della Quintana. This jousting match pits Ascoli’s six sestieri (districts) against each other, with inhabitants rooting loudly for their neighborhood’s horse and cavalier to win the cherished, hand-painted Palio (a special drape).

The jockey must maneuver his horse on the tight turns of a figure 8-shaped race course, while grasping a long, heavy wooden lance that he uses to pound the target, called “The Moor.”

The Living Chess Game in Veneto

At the base of the Venetian foothills, Marostica is a well-preserved medieval city with heavy stone walls that climb up the hillside. It’s still guarded by two castles, one of which anchors the long, elegant piazza that is outlined by palaces and trimmed with arcades and sidewalk cafés. Marostica is just a few miles from Bassano del Grappa, near the Dolomites.

The marble-paved Piazza del Castello is also known as the Piazza degli Scacchi (Chess Piazza). That’s because, during the second week of September in even-numbered years, it becomes an enormous chess board where the game’s figures are human.

Today’s re-enactment involves teams costumed in black and white, with proper swords and crowns, to designate the chess figures. The town’s imposing stone castle serves as a dramatic backdrop. Trumpets sound out the moves, and fans carry white or black flags to cheer on their team. Concerts, medieval flag-throwing competitions, and spirited fun are part of the party.

Editor’s Note: Learn more about Italy and other countries in our daily postcard e-letter. Sign up for IL’s free daily postcards here and we’ll send you a FREE report – Italy: Europe’s Most Seductive Country.

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South of Amalfi, Italy: Where Properties Cost Less

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We arrived at our rented villa just in time to see the sun slipping down toward the liquid-blue horizon. Perched on the terrace, we sipped rosé wine bought in a winery down the road and watched as nature splashed a rosy hue across the western sky. Fishermen returning with their catch left a silvery wake in the waning light. One hour in Cilento and we were smitten.

This lesser-known seaside destination is south of the renowned Amalfi Coast, but it’s a world away from the glitz and crowds. While the Amalfi road plunges and twists insanely, Cilento’s 60-mile stretch of coastline ambles from the ancient Greek ruins of Paestum to the rocky resort of Palinuro. In between are fishing villages and beachside towns that offer quintessential southern-Italian hospitality. And—unlike the Amalfi Coast’s tiny rocky coves—the beaches of Cilento are sandy, wide, and easily accessible.

Prices here are lower, too. Hotels and vacation villas are more affordable, even in high season. A dinner for two at a romantic seafront restaurant will set you back around $50, from antipasti through to dessert, with no skimping on the high-quality wine or fresh fish.

You won’t find manicured glamour or hoards of foreign tourists here. More likely, you’ll run across fishermen mending their nets and stylish locals parading the lungomare (seafront promenade). Open-air markets, where residents shop and haggle over the prices, are still common. A bag full of locally-grown vegetables at the market will set you back less than $5, and freshly-made, organic mozzarella di bufala, prized throughout Italy, is only about $17 a kilo.

Cilento is actually Italy’s second-largest national park, encompassing not only the coastline, but also the inland hills and Apennine Mountains. In total it covers nearly 700 square miles. Within it are vast, untouched natural spaces, loads of trails for hiking and horse riding, rivers for rafting, medieval hill towns, the remains of ancient Greek and Roman cities to explore, and modern beach towns.

Its centerpiece is Castellabate, a historic town perched above the Mediterranean that has been named a UNESCO World-Heritage site as well as one of the borghi piu’ belli—most beautiful towns of Italy. Old Castellabate is a perfectly-preserved medieval gem that maintains its ancient street plan, charming buildings, and breathtaking views of the Amalfi Coast and—in the distance—the isle of Capri.

The town is the municipal center for three other coastal towns. Santa Maria di Castellabate has sandy beaches right in the heart of town, where you can swim in the shadow of its waterfront castle. There is a long pedestrian street lined with shops, restaurants, and gelaterias (ice cream parlors). A couple of miles down the road is San Marco di Castellabate. It maintains its character as a fishing village with its small-town ambience and its marina, where a fleet of fishing boats brings in the fresh catch. (You can buy directly from them on the dock.) A few more miles south is Ogliastro Marina, a tiny cluster of homes on the bay, with a cute seafront church and some of the area’s best fish restaurants. There are stands of pine and miles of natural landscape. Much of the land still belongs to the area’s noble family, the Belmonte.

The area has only recently been discovered, mostly by northern Italians and Europeans, thanks in part to the movie Benvenuti al Sud, which was filmed in Castellabate. There is a six-month summer season here from May to October. While the whole Cilento enjoys a mild climate, Santa Maria’s unique exposure and protection by two promontories means you can still swim in October, when leaves are changing color inland. The winter is temperate and pleasant.

There has been a steady increase in tourism, with more foreign arrivals, more infrastructure for tourism, and improved roads to reach the area. More restaurant staff and shopkeepers speak English than before. While property prices have risen in recent years, they haven’t mushroomed, so a good return could still be made on an investment, if you’re buying to rent out.

If you fancy a dream B&B, then you’ll find a panoramic villa with terrace and garden resting on a hill between the sea and old Castellabate. It has gorgeous views and ample space to create a guesthouse or a couple of small apartments. The move-in-ready home is on offer for $676,000.

A more affordable option is a home with two apartments. It’s in a newly-restructured building in the historic center of San Mauro, about a half-hour south of Castellabate. The antique stone home has two bedrooms and some outdoor space, and it’s only 20 minutes to the pretty port town of Acciaroli, a haunt of Hemingway’s: He found inspiration for The Old Man and the Sea here, listening to the stories told by the salty fishermen of the village. Price: $115,000.

But if you’re looking for a home at a real bargain, you can find those, too. Just a half-hour inland is Vatolla di Perdifumo, a country village of stone-built houses nestled in hills draped in olives groves, fig trees, and grape vines. The tidy town has a 16th-century castle that hosts concerts and exhibits, a couple of good restaurants, and a lot of empty buildings waiting to be occupied.

Here, $31,450 buys a small apartment with a secret garden-like internal courtyard with an old stone well and an orange tree. A recently-updated apartment in a palazzo with garden space is going for just $61,500, while a two-story, two-bedroom townhouse with a panoramic terrace is listed for $109,400. For all these properties see here.

If you want a quiet retreat or full-time retirement home in an Old-World seaside town, head down the coast to Pioppi. It’s famous as the home of the Mediterranean Diet, where centenarians are common (and where, it is rumored, George Clooney has been quietly house-hunting).

The waterfront village lies along a crescent bay lined with palm trees and sandy beaches. The seaside palazzo houses a museum dedicated to Mediterranean cuisine. Summer concerts and theatrical performances keep people entertained, and feast days and festivals provide year-round fun.

Just above Pioppi is a two-bedroom pastel retreat that was recently built with a garden looking out over the hills, and listed for $243,000. Pioppi is connected to the hill town of Pollica, where you’ll find an adorable new stone-built cottage, with covered terrace, on a small piece of land that offers sweeping panoramas of the sea. The price tag for this two-bedroom cutie is $216,000. These peaceful properties are close to town but just far enough in the country to enjoy privacy and views. See here.

A bit farther south brings you to Pisciotta, a medieval stone village capping a hill. It has a maze of narrow lanes and nice overlooks of the marina and pebble beaches below. The old town offers everything you need to live comfortably—grocers, coffee bars, a colorful weekly market, a post office, and a handful of restaurants and pizzerias, along with an upscale hotel.

A mile-long footpath leads to the sea, where there is a modern hamlet centered on the train station and the boat marina. You can also opt for the three-mile asphalt road if you prefer to drive. Pisciotta is famous for its olive oil and friendly atmosphere. It’s a year-round town, rather than merely a beach destination, and it has attracted some retirees drawn to the mild climate and classic Mediterranean ambience. Many homes are for sale by word-of-mouth, rather than through estate agents, but I saw one website with a townhome going for $85,000 ($115,000). It has a balcony and an expansive view of the bay below. See here.

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Three Good Reasons to Get Residence in Italy…and How to Do it

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You have visions of rolling hills dotted with stone farmhouses, sunny piazzas and la dolce vita. A new life in Italy is alluring. That’s why I moved here eight years ago. But before you can start enjoying those sidewalk cafés and open-air markets, there are a few bureaucratic hurdles you’ll need to jump to live legally in Italy.

The Visa: If you’re not an EU citizen and want to spend more than three months at a time in Italy, you’ll need a visa to live here. You’ll need to apply through the Italian consulate in your jurisdiction (there are dozens in the U.S), and each consulate may interpret or apply the regulations differently.

There are several long-stay visas that you may apply for, depending on your circumstances: A student visa for those enrolled in an accredited university program; a long-term tourist visa for those wanting to stay a year to travel around; a working holiday visa if you want a seasonal job that will last no more than six months; and elective residence visa—the most common for retirees and people with an independent source of income. (Work visas can be difficult to get; you must have an Italian employer who will compile the necessary paperwork for you.)

It will take several months to compile the necessary paperwork and complete the application process with the consulate. They require a cover letter, the completed application form, proof of housing in the form of a rental contract, long-term stay arrangements, or a home purchase deed. You’ll have to submit proof of your financial assets to show you can support yourself during your residence. The amount varies and you’ll be told different things by different consulates. I know of people who were approved with $30,000 a year, and others with the same amount denied. It just depends on the consulate you use.

You’ll also need proof of international health insurance, fingerprints from your local police, and a report from the FBI declaring that you don’t have a criminal record. In addition, you’ll need to provide vital records, like official birth and marriage certificates translated into Italian.

All these papers are given to the consulate along with your passport; upon approval, the visa will be glued onto your passport pages.

The Permesso di Soggiorno: The elective residence visa affixed in your passport is only the first step though. Our benvenuto (warm welcome) to life as expats in Italy came at the Questura, when we dutifully presented ourselves to the provincial police headquarters as required to request the permesso di soggiorno (permit to stay).

The visa legally allows you to enter the country for a long-term stay; the permesso is required to actually live in Italy. We grouped up outside a sliding glass door at the immigration office with about 50 other foreigners waiting our turn at the window. No number system, no appointments; just a free-for-all.

That was back in 2006. Things have been streamlined a bit since then and applications can be made through the post office and there are appointment times, however loose. We also found that the experience can vary greatly by province; here in Potenza province, where there are few foreigners, there are shorter lines and more helpful staff.

The permesso di soggiorno requires copies of all the paperwork you submitted to obtain the visa, plus photocopies of every page of your passport; four recent passport-sized photos; and a revenue stamp that you purchase at a tabaccheria shop, along with the document packet that you pick up at the post office. You return it there when completed, receive an appointment time, and a receipt that will act like your temporary permesso until the real card arrives.

Residence: You’ve gone down Italy’s bureaucratic road that leads to a visa and a permesso di soggiorno (permit to stay), and then sighed in well-deserved relief at being able to officially live in Italy for an extended period of time. So I can hear you groan at the thought of another foray into officialdom to obtain the designation of residenza. Why subject yourself to the infamously grouchy clerks and onerous paperwork if you don’t have to? There are three good reasons why you should go that extra step and get residence.

1. You can’t buy a car in Italy unless you are a legal resident. Neither your permesso di soggiorno nor your codice fiscale (tax ID number) will cut it; you must have the carta d’identita that is issued only to residents to get yourself a set of wheels.

2. If you are a resident, you can declare your home as a “prima casa,” your primary residence, rather than a vacation home, and reduce your property taxes significantly. The rate you pay at the purchase is cut from 10% to 4%. And prima casa designation exempts you from the so-called IMU property tax in most of the country. In cities that have levied an IMU tax, it is significantly lower for prima casa homes. For example, we paid just $143 last year, and this only because we have three cantinas (storage rooms) that are calculated separately from the house.

3. Health care. Residence gives you access to the national health system, an important necessity. You’ll have to pay an annual fee to be enrolled, but it is extremely reasonable—usually less than one month’s cost for health insurance coverage in the U.S., and you get free doctor visits, annual mammograms, hospitalization coverage and emergency care in return, among other benefits.

How do you get Residenza in Italy? Take your permesso di soggiorno, copies of your translated vital records, your passport and two passport photos to your town hall and ask for it. Sound too simple? It’s actually one of the easiest pieces of official paper you’ll ever get in Italy.

Editor’s Note: Whether you choose to live on the Mediterranean coast, in glamorous Tuscany or in an Alpine retreat, Italy offers the kind of lifestyle that can’t be duplicated anywhere else on the planet. And it’s more affordable than you think. Here’s a “road map” on how to begin your new life in Italy soon.

You're reading Three Good Reasons to Get Residence in Italy…and How to Do it by International Living, originally posted on InternationalLiving.com. If you've enjoyed this post, be sure to follow International Living on Twitter, Facebook, and Google+!

Ditching Hollywood Glitz to Get a Real Life in Europe

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Arlene Gibbs was on-set in Toronto, working on a movie in production, when she realized she needed a life change. The two months she spent on location was the longest period she had been away from Los Angeles since she began working there 10 years previously.

“Everything in L.A. was about ‘The Business’,” she says. “Everyone I interacted with at work…at the cafes…even at the gym was involved in the movie industry.”

Her time in Toronto was an epiphany. “It hit me that I was without a personal life, working long hours, and being almost completely absorbed by the job,” the former screenwriter, now in her 40s says. “I realized that my movie characters were having lives, but I wasn’t.”

Her father told her she was existing, not living. She knew it wasn’t a healthy future.

But all of that has changed. Today, she lives in Rome, Italy with a fulfilling new business, and a lifestyle she simply didn’t have back home.

“In L.A. I had to make an appointment three weeks in advance to get together with friends, and then often they’d cancel at the last minute. I was lonely despite having lots of friends.”

In Rome she can grab an unscheduled coffee with a friend and finds that there are always people ready and able to meet for a drink or dinner. “My Italian friends will often decide that day to have a dinner party or go for aperitivi. If you can come great, if not, they will see you soon. Nobody is scheduling dinners three weeks out. That’s bananas.”

Arlene first visited the Italian capital in 2005 and says she felt at home immediately. “I thought maybe I’d move there for retirement,” she says. The move, however, came sooner than she expected.

The decision to ditch Hollywood was spurred on when the production company she worked for closed. Arlene planned her move and found an apartment in the historic center of Rome. She sold or donated many of her belongings, shipped the rest, and arrived in Rome on April 1, 2008 with a load of luggage and a handful of contacts.

“On my first day I moved into my apartment, got a codice fiscale (tax ID number), and started exploring the city.”

For income in the beginning, Arlene brought along some writing projects to sustain her while she settled in her new life. She co-wrote a script for a feature film, Jumping The Broom, which was a commercial success.

But surprisingly, a lucrative screenplay didn’t change things for Arlene in Hollywood circles. “I was repeatedly told that my ‘sabbatical in Rome’ must end and that I needed to return to Los Angeles if I wanted to continue a screenwriting career.”

She thought long and hard about her decision, in the end opting to stay in Italy where she was building a life, not just a career. So she returned to something she loved long ago but didn’t pursue—interior design.

Arlene had a brief stint in design right after college, at the Bloomingdale’s Executive Buyers Trainee Program working in the Home Furnishings division. She says friends constantly asked her advice about decorating and furnishings, so the passion for interior design wasn’t new for her.

To retrain, she interned with an Italian designer who also does furniture—despite her lack of Italian language skills. She was introduced by a mutual friend, and Arlene initially met with the designer for advice on going back to school for design. She was offered an internship and worked in the designer’s showroom.

It was a steep learning curve for Arlene. She thought she spoke decent Italian, but quickly discovered she had a long way to go. “I spoke ‘expat Italian,’” she says, “enough to get by.”

The designer was fluent in three languages, but every time Arlene had to answer the phone she was in a panic. She immediately started Italian lessons again, taking private classes, studying solo, and doing a language exchange with a friend to improve her Italian quickly.

The internship experience served to further fuel her choice, though, and she then attended an intense workshop with Kathryn M. Ireland, a famous British textile and interior designer based in Los Angeles. Arlene also attended the Salone di Mobili, the definitive international design expo in Milan, which provided more inspiration.

Her first client was a friend who had fired her previous decorator and needed to finish her apartment re-do. From that first job, Arlene started to build her credibility and portfolio, quickly landing a job collaborating with a noted architect, Domenico Minchilli, on a villa in Tuscany.

“In design, when you are first building your business, the majority of your clients are going to be friends and family,” says Arlene. “It doesn’t matter if you graduated with perfect grades from Parsons or if you are self-taught. Working with someone on their home or business décor is a very intimate thing. Few people would feel comfortable with hiring a complete stranger with no portfolio.

“Once you have a portfolio, people can see your work. Most designers find new clients by referral, even the ones who are well-established. It’s a collaboration. It’s important that the client and the designer are in sync.”

Arlene Gibbs has a new, inspiring source of income in Italy and a much better social life than she ever had in L.A. © Gina Gomez

Arlene spends a lot of time in Tuscany, Umbria, and Rome, working with upholsterers and blacksmiths, visiting craftsmen, and sourcing fabrics. “The craftsmanship is so incredible here,” she says. “Custom furnishings that will last a lifetime are really appreciated and available. I love discovering these artists’ workshops and working with them. There is an artistry and history behind each object.”

Her design work, she says, is almost like being on a film set, putting every detail into place to create just the right atmosphere. Arlene discovered that the narratives she told in film could also be told in design. Many of the skills she already had were put to use in her new venture.

“Decorating involves the visual arts and—like making a film—it’s a creative and collaborative effort,” she points out. “I have to work with the owners, the architects, and various builders and craftsmen. But interiors are homes, not just ‘sets’ for show. Each piece, each fabric has meaning and significance or says something about the building or the owner.”

The business aspect had to be dealt with, too. She opened a Partita IVA (business tax account) and hired a commercialista (business accountant) to keep everything on an official business level. Business and tax laws are complex and incomprehensible even to most Italians.

“There are a lot of complications in setting up a business in Italy, but my commercialista is good and is very patient in explaining tax laws to me,” says Arlene.

Arlene’s parents hail from St. Martin in the Caribbean and their citizenship enabled her to get a French passport. Because it’s from a European Union country, she was allowed to work in Italy. In general, American and Canadian expats can live and work in Italy after obtaining a visa and some other necessary paperwork (see sidebar).

Arlene says her design philosophy of “stylish simplicity” is influenced by her Caribbean heritage, her career in film, and the daily inspiration around her in Italy. Her portfolio, contacts, and client base have been expanding steadily. “I have Italian clients as well as expat clients. I’m glad that I’m able to not just live in Italy, but also work in Italy.”

Her current projects include designing an urban apartment in Rome, a villa in Tuscany, and a beach house in the Caribbean. Arlene has also recently taken on commercial design. In the future, she plans to design a line of bedding and candles.

Interior design was clearly the right career choice for Arlene, who bursts with excitement over her new work. Her new career is still a job, of course. She works some weekends and has to travel.

“I’m not on a perpetual vacation as many of my U.S. friends think,” she says. “This is a difficult industry to break into, especially in Italy. There are four times the number of architects in Rome than in the city of London, which is much larger.

But I’m sourcing materials and furnishings, learning about the traditional crafts, and seeing some great places in the process.”

She says that it is a job, but at the end of the day she can pop down to the piazza and find a friend to enjoy a Prosecco and unwind.

“Creatively, it is inspiring, but personally it has been an amazing change. I’m more integrated now. I love what I do, and I finally got a life!”

 

The Essentials of Doing Business in Italy

A jumble of complex laws that change regularly and seemingly indiscriminately can make doing business in Italy challenging, especially for freelancers and entrepreneurs. If you plan to work independently, known as lavoro autonomo, you’ll need a commercialista and a Partita IVA.

Commercialista

The commercialista is your best friend in business, so choose one wisely. More than a mere tax accountant, he is also a business consultant who will help you legally set up a business, pay taxes, and offer expert advice on business and tax law. A commercialista will answer questions about work, commerce, and fiscal issues, and will keep on top of the constantly changing tax laws and business regulations. A good commercialista is crucial if you’re going to work in Italy.

Partita IVA

IVA is the Italian abbreviation for what we translate as “value added tax” or VAT. The Partita IVA is your business tax number, necessary for doing business and billing clients. It’s issued through the Agenzia delle Entrate, or the Italian Revenue Agency. Your commercialista can register your Partita IVA for you.

 

What You Need to Know about Italian Visas

• Short-Term Visits

North American citizens do not need a visa for short-term stays in Italy. You can visit and stay 90 days in a 180-day period without a visa. That means if you stay for 90 consecutive days, you must leave and remain outside Italy—and other Schengen countries—for 90 days before you can return.

• Long-Term Visa

If you want to live in Italy for a longer period, you’ll need to obtain a visa from the Italian Consulate in your home country before arriving in Italy. It can take a few months to compile the necessary paperwork and receive approval, so plan ahead. Different visas are available depending on your circumstances, such as student visa, freelance work permit, tourist visa, or elective residence visa. Check with the Italian Consulate in your area regarding restrictions, regulations, and required paperwork for each type of visa.

• Permit to Stay

The visa allows you to enter Italy for a period longer than 90 days, but to stay you’ll need to obtain a permesso di soggiorno (permit to stay) after you arrive. You’ll need to take all the original paperwork you provided to the consulate and declare your presence at the provincial immigration office and start the procedure for your permesso di soggiorno. The actual forms for the permesso di soggiorno are obtained at and then submitted to the post office.

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You're reading Ditching Hollywood Glitz to Get a Real Life in Europe by International Living, originally posted on InternationalLiving.com. If you've enjoyed this post, be sure to follow International Living on Twitter, Facebook, and Google+!

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