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We arrived at our rented villa just in time to see the sun slipping down toward the liquid-blue horizon. Perched on the terrace, we sipped rosé wine bought in a winery down the road and watched as nature splashed a rosy hue across the western sky. Fishermen returning with their catch left a silvery wake in the waning light. One hour in Cilento and we were smitten.
This lesser-known seaside destination is south of the renowned Amalfi Coast, but it’s a world away from the glitz and crowds. While the Amalfi road plunges and twists insanely, Cilento’s 60-mile stretch of coastline ambles from the ancient Greek ruins of Paestum to the rocky resort of Palinuro. In between are fishing villages and beachside towns that offer quintessential southern-Italian hospitality. And—unlike the Amalfi Coast’s tiny rocky coves—the beaches of Cilento are sandy, wide, and easily accessible.
Prices here are lower, too. Hotels and vacation villas are more affordable, even in high season. A dinner for two at a romantic seafront restaurant will set you back around $50, from antipasti through to dessert, with no skimping on the high-quality wine or fresh fish.
You won’t find manicured glamour or hoards of foreign tourists here. More likely, you’ll run across fishermen mending their nets and stylish locals parading the lungomare (seafront promenade). Open-air markets, where residents shop and haggle over the prices, are still common. A bag full of locally-grown vegetables at the market will set you back less than $5, and freshly-made, organic mozzarella di bufala, prized throughout Italy, is only about $17 a kilo.
Cilento is actually Italy’s second-largest national park, encompassing not only the coastline, but also the inland hills and Apennine Mountains. In total it covers nearly 700 square miles. Within it are vast, untouched natural spaces, loads of trails for hiking and horse riding, rivers for rafting, medieval hill towns, the remains of ancient Greek and Roman cities to explore, and modern beach towns.
Its centerpiece is Castellabate, a historic town perched above the Mediterranean that has been named a UNESCO World-Heritage site as well as one of the borghi piu’ belli—most beautiful towns of Italy. Old Castellabate is a perfectly-preserved medieval gem that maintains its ancient street plan, charming buildings, and breathtaking views of the Amalfi Coast and—in the distance—the isle of Capri.
The town is the municipal center for three other coastal towns. Santa Maria di Castellabate has sandy beaches right in the heart of town, where you can swim in the shadow of its waterfront castle. There is a long pedestrian street lined with shops, restaurants, and gelaterias (ice cream parlors). A couple of miles down the road is San Marco di Castellabate. It maintains its character as a fishing village with its small-town ambience and its marina, where a fleet of fishing boats brings in the fresh catch. (You can buy directly from them on the dock.) A few more miles south is Ogliastro Marina, a tiny cluster of homes on the bay, with a cute seafront church and some of the area’s best fish restaurants. There are stands of pine and miles of natural landscape. Much of the land still belongs to the area’s noble family, the Belmonte.
The area has only recently been discovered, mostly by northern Italians and Europeans, thanks in part to the movie Benvenuti al Sud, which was filmed in Castellabate. There is a six-month summer season here from May to October. While the whole Cilento enjoys a mild climate, Santa Maria’s unique exposure and protection by two promontories means you can still swim in October, when leaves are changing color inland. The winter is temperate and pleasant.
There has been a steady increase in tourism, with more foreign arrivals, more infrastructure for tourism, and improved roads to reach the area. More restaurant staff and shopkeepers speak English than before. While property prices have risen in recent years, they haven’t mushroomed, so a good return could still be made on an investment, if you’re buying to rent out.
If you fancy a dream B&B, then you’ll find a panoramic villa with terrace and garden resting on a hill between the sea and old Castellabate. It has gorgeous views and ample space to create a guesthouse or a couple of small apartments. The move-in-ready home is on offer for $676,000.
A more affordable option is a home with two apartments. It’s in a newly-restructured building in the historic center of San Mauro, about a half-hour south of Castellabate. The antique stone home has two bedrooms and some outdoor space, and it’s only 20 minutes to the pretty port town of Acciaroli, a haunt of Hemingway’s: He found inspiration for The Old Man and the Sea here, listening to the stories told by the salty fishermen of the village. Price: $115,000.
But if you’re looking for a home at a real bargain, you can find those, too. Just a half-hour inland is Vatolla di Perdifumo, a country village of stone-built houses nestled in hills draped in olives groves, fig trees, and grape vines. The tidy town has a 16th-century castle that hosts concerts and exhibits, a couple of good restaurants, and a lot of empty buildings waiting to be occupied.
Here, $31,450 buys a small apartment with a secret garden-like internal courtyard with an old stone well and an orange tree. A recently-updated apartment in a palazzo with garden space is going for just $61,500, while a two-story, two-bedroom townhouse with a panoramic terrace is listed for $109,400. For all these properties see here.
If you want a quiet retreat or full-time retirement home in an Old-World seaside town, head down the coast to Pioppi. It’s famous as the home of the Mediterranean Diet, where centenarians are common (and where, it is rumored, George Clooney has been quietly house-hunting).
The waterfront village lies along a crescent bay lined with palm trees and sandy beaches. The seaside palazzo houses a museum dedicated to Mediterranean cuisine. Summer concerts and theatrical performances keep people entertained, and feast days and festivals provide year-round fun.
Just above Pioppi is a two-bedroom pastel retreat that was recently built with a garden looking out over the hills, and listed for $243,000. Pioppi is connected to the hill town of Pollica, where you’ll find an adorable new stone-built cottage, with covered terrace, on a small piece of land that offers sweeping panoramas of the sea. The price tag for this two-bedroom cutie is $216,000. These peaceful properties are close to town but just far enough in the country to enjoy privacy and views. See here.
A bit farther south brings you to Pisciotta, a medieval stone village capping a hill. It has a maze of narrow lanes and nice overlooks of the marina and pebble beaches below. The old town offers everything you need to live comfortably—grocers, coffee bars, a colorful weekly market, a post office, and a handful of restaurants and pizzerias, along with an upscale hotel.
A mile-long footpath leads to the sea, where there is a modern hamlet centered on the train station and the boat marina. You can also opt for the three-mile asphalt road if you prefer to drive. Pisciotta is famous for its olive oil and friendly atmosphere. It’s a year-round town, rather than merely a beach destination, and it has attracted some retirees drawn to the mild climate and classic Mediterranean ambience. Many homes are for sale by word-of-mouth, rather than through estate agents, but I saw one website with a townhome going for $85,000 ($115,000). It has a balcony and an expansive view of the bay below. See here.
You're reading South of Amalfi, Italy: Where Properties Cost Less by International Living, originally posted on InternationalLiving.com. If you've enjoyed this post, be sure to follow International Living on Twitter, Facebook, and Google+!